THE GUIDE TO Lodging in France's Monasteries
Stay in a beautiful French monastery for about $30 a day.
Everyone is welcome without any religious obligation.
544 pages, more than 450 photos.
Heavenly Accommodations At Sinfully Low Rates
Stay in a beautiful French monastery for about 30 euros a day. Open to all without religious obligation.
THIS WEBSITE CONTAINS EXCERPTS FROM The Guide To Lodging In France's Monasteries
The Guide To Lodging in France's Monasteries is your passport to over 150 of France's monasteries, convents and casas that extend hospitality to guests. It is the only comprehensive source providing easy access to this remarkable travel experience.
"In depth personal interviews give you an inside track on nearby towns and villages as well as the interesting folklore of France. This guide will make your trip to Spain a unique adventure."
Stay in a beautiful monastery for about $30 per day.
Perhaps most remarkable is the low cost of the accommodations and meals. The majority of the rates range between a voluntary donation to about $30 per night, often including meals
Open to all without religious obligation.
Staying in a monastery, convent or maison is a wonderful travel experience. Everything you need to plan your trip is included: French/English reservation letter, contact info, email addresses, costs, amenities, public transportation and driving directions.
Eileen Barish is the award-winning author of unique travel guides.
Recipient of numerous awards, Eileen Barish's books have been reviewed by over 500 newspapers and periodicals world-wide.
LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON
This splendid villa-castle was built at the end of the 19th century. It is immersed in its own park, two miles from town and ten miles from the sea and the Spanish border. The villa belonged to a local nobleman before becoming a seminary. In the 1960s it was converted into a guest house. The original interiors and stuccos have been preserved, although the house has been restored and is accessible to the handicapped.
LORRAINE
The ermitage is a beautiful stone structure flanked by two rounded towers and was once an ancient castle. The rays of the sun stream through the large windows and bathe the spacious interiors with diffused light. The house occupies a peaceful spot enveloped by a tree-shaded, green oasis in a tiny village on the outskirts of Metz. There is evidence that in 1368 a tower stood where the guest house now stands. In the early 1400s the structure was fashioned into a fortified castle.
A fifteen-minute walk from the center of Nîmes, the Maison is a peaceful, verdant oasis far from the noise of the city yet conveniently close to all that Nîmes has to offer. Quartered at the center of a large wooded park, the institution was built a century ago and for a few years served as the seminary of Nîmes. After that time it was occupied by a community of nuns. In 2000 the diocese decided to convert the facility into a guest house. Each bedroom overlooks the park. The chapel has also been restored and is open to guests. The maison frequently hosts art expositions.
BRITTANY
The monastery occupies a picturesque site ensconced in a verdant woodland. The beautiful stone structure became a monastery after the Dominican sisters took up residence in 1963. The complex was seriously damaged during the German occupation but over the last forty years, the sisters have managed to restore the building and enlarge the chapel which has a vaulted beamed ceiling and
rustic stone walls.
The monastery occupies a picturesque site ensconced in a verdant woodland. The beautiful stone structure became a monastery after the Dominican sisters took up residence in 1963. The complex was seriously damaged during the German occupation but over the last forty years, the sisters have managed to restore the building and enlarge the chapel which has a vaulted beamed ceiling and rustic stone walls. The sisters produce jam, honey, candles, icons, religious garments and fabric with batik decorations.
Brittany is defined by the sea and coast which spans some 750 miles with palms, oleanders, figs and mimosas that thrive in the mild climate. The abbey is a large complex quartered on an enchanting spot in the northernmost region of Brittany. Founded in 465 by St-Jacut it was originally a Bénédictine institution. The abbey is lodged in a park that provides visitors with a distinct sense of serenity. For centuries the abbey constituted an important religious center which exerted great influence on the development of the area.
This former Augustinian convent is quartered less than two miles from the ocean. It was built in the 17th century over the ruins of Salles de passants, an ancient hospital where St-Ives once assisted the ill. The saint (1253-1303) is the main saint of Brittany. It is now a religious center managed by lay personnel. "The complex has been classified as an historical monument. We also have a Baroque retable... but it is the 'ensemble' that has a special atmosphere," said Catherine, the woman in charge of hospitality.
MIDI-PYRÉNÉES
The monastery sits in the pretty town along the route to Santiago de Compostela. The building was erected in 1833 and a community of Carmélite Nuns has inhabited the structure since that time. The chapel shelters a 16th century wooden statue of Christ. The monastery lies between Rocamadour and the Tarn Gorges. The deep chasms of the Tarn were formed thousands of years ago during an intense geological upheaval. The area is worth visiting for the landscapes alone.
Located on the outskirts of town, the monastery enjoys a splendid vista of the Monts du Canal on the Massif Central. It was founded in 1653 by a group of nuns of the Clarice Order. Due to the suppression of the religious orders during the French Revolution, the sisters were forced to leave the complex in 1790 and didn't return until 1868. Easy day trips can encompass a number of quaint villages.
The prieuré is a new construction on the outskirts of Tarbes, a pretty town at the foot of the Pyrénéan chain. At one time a community of Carmélite Sisters inhabited the complex. The present community of friars took up residence in 1998. The city of Tarbes is an ancient one, ideally located near the mountains, Lourdes, the Spanish border and a multitude of castles and abbeys. There is a wonderful view of the Pyrénéan mountains from the guest quarters.
PROVENCE
The maison sits in "la Madeleine" a peaceful section of Nice, close to the promenade des Anglais and not far from the center of town. The grounds convey a tropical aura, one of palm trees, bougainvillea and soft pastel colors. The graciously proportioned house, with its azure blue shutters, is surrounded by a pretty Mediterranean garden. In 1928 it was enlarged, renovated and converted into a guest house for anyone on holiday. It is the property of the sisters of Ste-Clotilde.
The complex of Maison is composed of two recently renovated villas surrounding the Chapelle du Rosaire, the last work of Henry Matisse. From 1948 to 1951, the artist designed and entirely decorated the chapel for the Dominican sisters. Considered one of the greatest works of 20th century art, for the artist it was "the climax of a life's work." The sisters organize guided tours of the chapel.
The maison is quartered on a verdant hill overlooking the Mediterranean, one mile from the center of La Croix Valmer, a small Provençal village set in a gently sloping, sheltered valley. The maison is quite large and for decades has been a landmark used by navigators cruising along the coast. The architecture of the building is typical of the area: an imposing white structure enlivened by bright yellow trim and surrounded by its own park. The fathers of Saint-Esprit own and manage the house.
A former convent, the complex of the Hôtellerie and Sanctuary of Notre-Dame de Lumières is situated in Hameau de Lumière, a tiny picturesque hamlet of the "commune" of Goult at the foot of forested, rocky cliffs. A large parkland surrounds the premises imparting an aura of serenity and seclusion. Pleasant shoreline walks along the little Imergue river can be enjoyed by guests. The story of the shrine began in the 17th century with a local peasant who suffered from an illness saw a beautiful light and was completely cured. The miracle started a pilgrimage to the site.
The ancient seminary, Property of the Diocese of Nice, is now a hotel possessing a wonderful position overlooking the Baie des Anges, a short distance from the famous promenade des Anglais and right beside the Port of Nice. The Maison du Séminaire has its own serene garden and a restaurant with a terrace on the sea. Its chapel is opulently embellished. The maison is close to the Vieille Ville and convenient to many monuments and sites.
NORMANDY
The abbey, an ancient structure enhanced by the beauty of its own park, was originally founded in Cherbourg in 1623 but the order moved to its present location a few years later. In 1811 the nuns took up residence in a former Capuchin convent which remains their home. The simple cloister has an arched ceiling enhanced by stone work and rounded windows through which sunlight streams down on the handset paved stone floor.
The Château is very close to the center of Gouville-sur-Mer and the sea. Set in its own verdant park the it faces the Anglo-Norman Channel Islands. A 19th century castle converted into a guest house by the Don Bosco's Salesian Priests, it is managed by a lay association. The château is an excellent base from which to explore the Manche département of Normandy as well as the coastline cities.
A very active monastery originally founded in the 6th century in Almenesches, a mile or so from Argentan. The monastery was destroyed during the Norman invasions of the 9th century and then restored in 1060. In 1736 King Louis XV ordered that the abbey be moved to Argentan. The abbey is very proud of its verdant setting. In springtime the trees come alive with beautiful white flowers. The church is a stark, contemporary-like stone structure, its interior reflects the simplicity of the construction with stone walls, a domed wood ceiling and other interesting wood touches.
CENTER
The abbey occupies a peaceful setting in the Norman countryside and is encircled by its own parkland. On a hill overlooking the plain of Bessin and the distant contour of the Cathedral of Bayeux, the abbey began in the 12th century, founded by the Hermit Turstin and a handful of disciples. It suffered various vicissitudes due to the Protestant-Catholic conflicts. Since its inception the abbey has been renowned for its hospitality and generosity although it remained a modest complex throughout the Middle Ages.
A beautiful stone building, it was constructed in the 16th century on the site of a medieval priory, the maison is where the monks of St-Jean en Vallée found shelter when their monastery was destroyed by fire. They remained until the French Revolution. Once a seminary, the diocese turned the building into a guest house to host pilgrims to the cathedral and tourists on holiday. There are 50 rooms with private baths.
The prieuré is inhabited by a small community of sisters who actively organize spiritual retreats and sessions of study on religious subjects. They also welcome visitors on holiday. The institution is ensconced in its own park in the center of the city and provides a relaxing respite. Tall trees shade a trail through the maison grounds.
RHÔNE-ALPS
The sanctuary is an international center of pilgrimage and among the most important French pilgrimage sites. Quartered in a truly exceptional elevation at 5,900', it is encompassed by the mountains of the National Park of Ecrins and the Valbonais and Valjoufrey mountains. Three different massifs (calcareous, granitic and volcanic) meet in this locale to create an absolutely gorgeous tableau.
The guest house open to all for holidays, pilgrimages and spiritual retreats. It was once an orphanage founded by St-Curé (Jean-Marie Vianney). He entrusted the orphanage to the sisters of St-Joseph who began hosting pilgrims in 1843 and slowly converted the facility into a guest house open to all. The house has now been delegated to the Sœurs Missionnaires Travailleuses. The maison's tranquil setting is enhanced by a pretty garden. Jean-Marie Vianney was canonized by Pope Pius XI in 1925 and in 1929 was proclaimed patron saint of all priests.
ALSACE
The facility has been occupied since the start of the Christian era when it became a pilgrimage site. The institution is installed in the heart of the North Vosges Regional Nature Park, an arena of marked hiking, biking and equestrian trails that lead past rural communes and châteaux. The area is also home to the Lalique crystal works. Although the complex was enlarged at the beginning of the 16th century, it was rebuilt and enlarged again in the 18th century.
The monastery is quartered inside the Romanesque fortifications of Rosheim. The structure was used as a spa until 1862 at which time a group of Bénédictine nuns from Lorraine took up residence and founded the monastery. Shortly afterwards the nuns opened a boarding school for girls that became quite well known throughout France. The school was closed after the Nazi invasion in 1939. The 18th century complex has a chapel embellished by a 16th century Pietà.
The Foyer sits just outside the village of Reutenbourg in a locale dedicated to the worship of Mary. During the 14th century, pilgrimages were made to a simple building; however, in the 15th century, the present church was constructed. Its architecture is Gothic Flamboyant. Although pilgrimage to the shrine started long before 1350 the origins are undocumented. It is known that in 1350 an almost complete reconstruction of the shrine took place. Later additions included the tower of the choir (1693) and the restored facade (1827) which is surmounted by a statue of the Virgin.
The maison was founded by the Redemptorist Fathers in 1932. Until a few years ago it was only used for spiritual retreats. At that time, it was totally renovated and now accommodates individuals and groups seeking relaxing holidays. Elderly visitors and the disabled are also welcome. The house is in a shaded niche, enveloped by its own park and forest.
The convent was Founded by the Redemptorist Fathers in 1820. Built in the 16th century, it shelters beautiful stained glass windows and a polygonal vaulted choir. Sited near the top of the 1,200' Bischenberg hill and surrounded by a vineyard and fruit orchard, the monastery looks like a flower bouquet in the spring. There is a beautiful panorama from the monastery that encompasses the Alsatian plain and many of its quaint villages. The views also encompass the Black Forest and on a clear day, the Swiss Alps.
AUVERGNE
Located at the heart of the medieval city of St-Flour, the maison is installed in an 18th century building. Just a few minutes from the center of town, the institution overlooks the valley below. Founded in the 15th century, and was once the ancient seminary of St-Flour, it experienced various vicissitudes due to the French Revolution. Despite these difficulties, the activity of the seminary continued until 1959. At that time it became a guest house for holidays, workshops and spiritual retreats.
The old seminary of Le-Puy-en-Velay sits atop a volcanic thrust embraced by a park in the center of town. At one time, it housed young men studying to become priests. As vocations decreased, the accueil was converted into a guest house to host pilgrims. The sanctuary, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, was built in the early Middle Ages. Its popularity, both in France and throughout Europe, resulted in Le Puy becoming the starting point of the road to Santiago de Compostela.
The maison is well situated in the center of town. Offering a simple and friendly atmosphere, the maison is used as a retreat for French priests but also hosts guests who wish to visit the compelling landscapes of the region. Located in a small market town, Aurillac is a maze of old streets, now mostly pedestrianized. The provincial capital of the Cantal, it still bears the mark of its commercial and industrial past. Its markets and fairs are some of the most important in the region.
BURGUNDY
The monastery is nestled in Burgundy's pretty countryside along the banks of the Loire river, a short distance from the center of Nevers. The third French monastery of this order, it was founded in 1616 by Ste-Jeanne de Chantel, the same nun who established the Order of the Nuns of the Visitation. There is a pretty chapel created by the restoration of a hayloft that exposes the natural rock of the hill. There is also a shop that sells souvenirs of Ste-Jeanne.
CORSICA
The Bénédictine monastery overlooks a verdant valley and the sea from the foothills of the mountains. The 17th century complex once belonged to the Franciscan Order. It is built in a very simple manner, typical of Franciscan constructions and has been preserved for four centuries without ever being remodeled. "Even the floor is made of the original stone," said Pere Federico. Including a cloister and terraced garden, almost every part of the monastery is accessible to guests who are hosted inside the original cells of the friars.
The convent is in Vico, less than ten miles by mountain road from the sea. Built in 1481 by the Franciscan Order, it was completely rebuilt in 1627 and enlarged in 1700. During the French Revolution the friars left the convent and returned after it had been bought by a priest. Since that time it has been inhabited by a community of Oblat friars. There are also several intriguing archeological sites in the vicinity such as Sagone, Castiglione and Arbori.
FRANCHE-COMTÉ
The shrine, one of the most ancient in the region, is less than a mile from the small town of Dole. Enclosed by its own park with a forest nearby, the sanctuary is the epitome of a relaxing locale. Built in 1089 by the Bénédictine Order, the complex was destroyed in 1636 by the Swedish army. At the beginning of the 18th century, the church was demolished and then reconstructed. In 1850 the Jesuit Fathers who had purchased the property decided to remodel the church once again. Designed by the architect Ducat, it was completed in 1859 and is highlighted by a rose window.
The monastery is famous for having been founded by Ste-Colette de Corbie in 1415. The saint, charmed by the small fortified town, asked Jean-Sans-Peur, Duke of Burgundy, to finance her project. Founder of the Order of Poor Clares, She lived in the monastery about a dozen years and then traveled and established seventeen other monasteries, all inhabited by the nuns of the Order of Sainte-Claire of Assisi. In 1783 her relics were brought to the monastery.
North-Calais
Surrounded by its own private park, the ancient seminary is in a peaceful quarter of the city. Built in 1698 by a community of Trinitarian friars, nearly a century later the structure was sold and its chapel destroyed. In 1814 a group of Bénédictine monks took up residence in the complex and built a new chapel and bell tower. Sixty years later they were forced to leave as a result of anticlerical laws. In 1914 the Bishop of Arras bought the complex and converted it into a seminary.
Poitou-Charentes
Founded in 1120, the domination of the Cistercian Order is evident not only in the siting of the complex but in the sobriety of its style and harmony of its proportions. The architecture visible today belongs to the 17th century. In 1792 the property was confiscated as national patrimony, sold and the monks expelled. In 1947 the Parish of Asnières, near Paris, bought the property. Over the past few years, the association which runs the complex has begun a total restoration. Ruins of a Romanesque church and buildings are still visible.
Inexpensive Accommodations
Remarkable Historic Buildings
Memorable Settings
Alsace 21
Bischoffsheim: Amicale et Couvent du Bischenberg 22
Goersdorf: Le Liebfrauenberg 27
Haguenau: Maison Saint-Gérard 31
Lucelle: Maison Saint-Bernard 34
Marmoutier: Air et Vie - Centre Monier 37
Ottrott: Hostellerie du Mont Sainte-Odile 40
Reutenbourg: Foyer Notre-Dame de Reinacker 44
Rosheim: Monastère de Bénédictines du Saint-Sacrement 49
Strasbourg: Association Foyer de Notre-Dame 52
Aquitaine 56
Bayonne: Maison Diocésaine 57
Dax: Sarl L'Arrayade 61
Périgeux: Centre d'Accueil Madeline Delbrel 65
Auvergne 70
Aurillac: Maison St-Raphael 71
Le-Puy-en-Velay: Accueil St-Georges 75
Domaine de Chadenac 79
St-Flour: La Maison des Planchettes 82
Monastère de la Visitation 85
Brittany 88
Dinard: Maison Saint-François 89
Morlaix: Monastère des Augustines 94
Plerguer: Notre-Dame-de-Beaufort 97
St-Jacut-de-la-Mer: L'Abbaye 101
St-Gildas-de-Rhuys: Abbaye de Rhuys 105
Tréguier: Centre Saint-Augustin 109
Burgundy 114
Joigny: Centre Sophie Barat 115
Nevers: Monastère de la Visitation 119
Paray-le-Monial: Foyer du Sacré-Cœur 123
Maison du Sacré-Cœur 127
Vézelay: Basilique Sainte-Madeleine 129
Center 134
Chartres: Maison Saint-Yves 135
Epernon: Prieuré Saint-Thomas 142
Molineuf: Carmél de Blois 146
Pellevoisin: Sanctuaire Notre-Dame de Miséricorde 149
Champagne-Ardenne 156
Sainte-Maure: Lycée Privé Sainte-Maure 157
Corsica 163
Cateri: Prieuré du Saint-Esprit 164
Santa Maria di Lota: Maison Saint-Hyacinthe 168
Vico: Couvent Saint-François 173
Franché-Comte 177
Dole: Sanctuaire de Notre-Dame de Mont Roland 178
Poligny: Monastère Sainte-Claire 181
Languedoc-Roussillon 184
Carcassonne: Notre-Dame de l'Abbaye 185
Castelnaudary: Monastère des Clarisses 191
Conqueyrac: Notre-Dame de la Gardiole 196
Nîmes: Maison Diocésaine de Nîmes 201
Perpignan: Maison Diocésaine 208
Limousin 214
Aubazine: Monastère de la Théophanie 215
Lorraine 218
Moulins-les-Metz: Ermitage Saint-Jean 219
Rambluzin-et-Benoîte-Vaux: Sanctuaire Notre-Dame 223
St-Jean-de-Bassel: Couvent de la Divine Providence 229
Lower-Normandy 233
Argentan: Abbaye Notre-Dame 234
Bayeux: Monastère del la Sainte-Trinité 239
Gouville-sur-Mer: Château des Forges 245
Juaye-Mondaye: Abbaye Saint-Martin-de-Mondaye 251
La Chapelle-Montligeon: Sanctuaire Notre-Dame de Montligeon 255
St-Jean-le-Thomas: L'Etoile de la Mère 259
Valognes: Abbaye Notre-Dame de Protection 263
Midi-Pyrénées 269
Conques: Abbaye Sainte-Foy 270
Maison Familial de Vacance Sainte-Foy 276
Figeac: Carmél de Figeac 281
Gavarnie: L'Isard 285
Lourdes: Foyer Familial 288
Maison Bellevue 291
Mur-de-Barrez: Monastère Sainte-Claire 295
Rocamadour: Le Relais des Remparts 299
Tarbes - Laloubère: Prieuré Notre-Dame des Neiges 303
North-Calais 309
Arras: Maison Saint-Vaast 310
Godewaersvelde: Abbaye Sainte-Marie du Mont-des-Cats 316
Paris-Isle-of-France 321
Paris: Foyer Saint-Jean Eudes 322
Montmorency: Centre du Dialogue 331
Pays-de-la-Loire 340
Béhuard: Maison Diocésaine 341
Le Mans: Centre de l'Etoile 349
Pontmain: Centre Pastoral du Sanctuaire 353
Poitou-Charentes 357
Bassac: Abbaye de Bassac 358
Béruges: Abbaye Notre-Dame-du-Pin 362
Bonneuil-Matours: Monastère des Augustines 366
Corme-Ecluse: Centre d'Accueil des Dominicaines 370
Montmoreau: Abbaye Notre-Dame-de-Maumont 373
Provence-Alpes-Azur 376
Callas: Maison St-Dominique 377
Cannes: C.I.M.E.M. 382
Faucon-de-Barcelonnette: Alpes Montjoie 387
Goult: Hôtellerie Notre-Dame de Lumières 391
La Croix Valmer: Maison Saint-Esprit 398
Le Plan d'Aups Ste-Baume: Hôtellerie de la Ste-Baume 404
Nice: Association Marie-Clotilde 410
Maison du Séminaire 415
Saint-Etienne-le-Laus: Hôtellerie Notre-Dame-du-Laus 419
St-Paul: Couvent de Passe-Prest 425
Sorgues: Monastère de la Visitation 428
Tarascon: Abbaye Saint-Michel de Frigolet 433
Utelle: Sanctuaire Notre-Dame des Miracles 440
Vence: Maison Lacordaire 444
Rhône-Alps 448
Ars-sur-Formans: La Providence 449
Belley: Maison Saint-Anthelme 453
Crest: Monastère Sainte-Claire 461
Ecully: Valpré Lyon 464
Francheville: La Chardonnière 468
La Salette-Fallavaux: Sanctuaire Notre-Dame de la Salette 472
Noirétable: Notre-Dame-de-l'Hermitage 477
Awaken each morning to church bells ringing out over perched villages and ancient walled towns. Mingle with the locals at the daily market. Enjoy a glass of Bordeaux or hot chocolate in a friendly cafe. People watch from an atmospheric plaza. Stroll the medieval quarters and cobblestone streets of a quaint hamlet. Admire France's idiosyncratic timber-framed houses and royal castles, as charming today as they were hundreds of years ago or visit a bastide, a town layout unique to France.
Open to all, regardless of religious denomination, lodging at monasteries is a unique experience, a new approach to travel that Europeans have been enjoying for centuries. Whether you prefer the sophistication of a city, the allure of the countryside or the simplicity of a tiny walled village, each of the monasteries described in this guide represents a singular experience, an experience that will linger long after you've returned home.
But perhaps most remarkable is the very low cost of accommodations and meals. Rates range from a voluntary donation to an average of 30€ per night. And many monasteries serve meals for just a few euros more. Others often have kitchens and dining rooms where guests may prepare their own meals. What is common to each is cleanliness, graciousness, beauty, safety and a divine sense of serenity.
Monasteries are an integral part of France's history and heritage and are emblematic of the country's diverse culture. There are monastery locations to suit every taste. Choose a site in a sleepy village backdropped by snow-capped mountains. Reserve a room in an ancient city still enclosed by 13th century walls or a tiny hamlet overlooked by a massive fortress. Stay in a convent with ocean views. Make Corsica your destination and explore the pristine wilderness and earthy Mediterranean towns of the island.
More than just lodging particulars, Lodging in France's Monasteries provides history-laced vignettes offering insight into the little known villages and attractions surrounding the monasteries. Information not readily found in other guide books. In addition to extensive research into the small towns and villages of France, the customs and folklore of the regions are also covered. You'll learn about places unspoiled by tourism, places that have remained unchanged for centuries.
What's in a name? Monastery, convent (abbey, sanctuary), or maison. Historically, monasteries housed monks whereas nuns resided in convents. A maison is a guest house owned and generally managed by an order. Over the centuries, much has changed and the gender of the order in residence and its designation as monastery or convent is no longer gender specific.
Monastic orders have traditionally offered hospitality to travelers. This book introduces you to that remarkable travel resource and to a custom that allows you to immerse yourself in another time and place. Staying at a monastery is a rewarding experience but it is important to remember that a monastery is not a hotel and should be regarded accordingly.
The monasteries described in Section One offer hospitality to all without any religious obligation.
The information necessary to plan a trip is included: contact person, address, telephone, fax (and where available, email address and website), amenities and a description of accommodations and rates. A sample reservation letter in French and English will help you with your travel arrangements. You can book reservations by letter but faxing and telephoning may prove more effective. When calling or faxing, be certain to take into account the time difference and avoid waking someone in the middle of the night. For those institutions that offer email portals, we suggest emailing your requests.
Section Two is a listing of monasteries that offer hospitality to guests who would like to sample the religious life or experience a time of spiritual retreat. Pertinent contact information and special requirements are provided.
Amicale et Couvent du Bischenberg
Pères Rédemptoristes
Crowning a pretty hill, the convent is a few hundred yards from Bischoffsheim. Founded by the Redemptorist Fathers in 1820, the convent was closed by Bismarck from 1873 until 1895. The chapel of the convent is dedicated to Notre-Dame de Sept-Douleurs. Built in the 16th century, it shelters beautiful stained glass windows and a polygonal vaulted choir.
The monastery is sited near the top of the 1,200' Bischenberg hill at the foot of Mont Ste-Odile, between Obernai and Rosheim. Surrounded by a vineyard and fruit orchard, the monastery looks like a flower bouquet in the spring. There is a beautiful panorama from the monastery that encompasses the Alsatian plain and many of its quaint villages. The views also encompass the Black Forest and on a clear day, the Swiss Alps.
The first mention of Bischoffsheim dates back to 662 when it was sold to the bishopric of Strasbourg. Two important castles were built there: the Oberschloss in 1326 and the 15th century Renaissance Niederschloss, both of which have partly survived the devastation and wars of the past. Nestled against the mountain, the small village of Bischoffsheim has become a popular destination thanks to its International Congress Center.
Of Celtic origin, Alsace became part of the Roman province of upper Germany. It lies between Germany and the forests of the Vosges and is the most Teutonic of France's provinces. It is renowned for its foie gras and choucroute (sauerkraut). The typical half-timbered architecture of its villages evokes fairy tale images of the Black Forest. The houses exhibit a distinctive construction style. They were built by filling the space between the timbers with either bricks or wattle and daub (vines used as a wicker-like woven mat between the timbers that was then covered in mud). Although this style of architecture is common throughout the region, the unique arrangement of the timbers sets each locality apart from the next.
Bordering on Germany, this enchanting region of hills, rolling fields and forests has a rich Jewish heritage. Nowhere else in France will visitors find the sheer number of 18th and 19th century synagogues, or a Jewish community with such a rural history. One hundred and seventy-six synagogues were built in Alsace between 1791 and 1914; nearly every town and village had one. But although the 18th and 19th centuries are well represented, little remains of medieval Jewish structures as there was a ban on synagogue construction from the 14th through 18th centuries. Similar in manner and custom to Jews from Eastern and Central Europe, Alsatian Jews developed characteristics unique to them: a synagogue liturgy called Minhag Elzos and a dialect called Judeo-Alsatian (akin to Yiddish). Tourist offices throughout the region offer guided Jewish heritage tours.
The convent is not far from medieval Obernai, a town that retains the flavor of authentic Alsace. The townspeople speak Alsatian and during their many festivals, the women dress in traditional garb. The Renaissance and medieval timbered houses and the twisting streets wind around a lively, golden-hued marketplace and add to the overall appeal of the setting. Shaded by lime trees, Obernai's old ramparts remain as testament to its varied history. Tour de la Chapelle, an ancient watchtower, dates from the 13th and 16th centuries. The Eglise St-Pierre et St-Paul is a cavernous neo-Gothic structure. Odile, Alsace's seventh-century patron saint, was born in Obernai and is buried in Chapelle Ste-Odile southwest of town. There is also a neo-Romanesque synagogue dedicated in 1876 and rededicated in 1948.
Boersch is a small medieval town at the bottom of the Vosges, a couple of miles from Obernai. Its rich historical patrimony is reflected in three fortified Gothic gateways. Remains of 14th century murals that once adorned them are still visible. 16th century houses and a town hall delineated by a turret with mullion windows are at the heart of the old quarter.
Molsheim, a former bishopric and fortified market town, is also nearby. It boasts an appealing center filled with important historical, archeological and architectural sites. The ramparts recall the heroic struggles of the Middle Ages. Winding alleyways lined with stone-fronted houses offer glimpses into the past. In the same vicinity, Barr, a wine-growing village, is nestled in vineyard-covered hills and defined by winding cobblestone streets.
Accommodations
10 double rooms, baths are shared. Both men and women are welcome.
Amenities
Towels and linens can be provided on request.
Cost per person/per night
14.00€, does not include breakfast or the use of the meeting rooms.
Meals
Only breakfast can be provided on request. Other meals may be prepared in a kitchen that guests may use.
Directions
By car: From Strasbourg take Autoroute A 35 south to D 422 towards Obernai. Exit at Bischoffsheim.
By train: Get off at Bischoffsheim and take a taxi to the convent.
Contact
Write a letter (or fax) to:
Père Hôtelier
Amicale et Couvent du Bischenberg
Boite Postale 155
Bischoffsheim
67214 Obernai cedex, France
Tel: 0033 (0)3 88 50 41 27
Fax: 0033 (0)3 88 48 07 95
Le Liebfrauenberg
Protestant Center
A very active Protestant center in a natural and relaxing setting, Le Liebfrauenberg has been occupied since the start of the Christian era when it became a pilgrimage site devoted to the Virgin Mary. In the 14th century a chapel was built in her honor. Le Liebfrauenberg is installed in the heart of the North Vosges Regional Nature Park, an arena of marked hiking, biking and equestrian trails that lead past rural communes and châteaux. The area is also home to Wingen-sur-Moder, the Lalique crystal works.
Although the complex was enlarged at the beginning of the 16th century, it was destroyed during the time of the Reformation. Rebuilt and enlarged in the 18th century, it became the manor where Jean Baptiste Boussingault, a famous chemist, lived in the 19th century. He was professor of chemistry at Lyons and later professor of agriculture and analytical chemistry at the Paris Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers. He is known for his research on the nitrogen cycle. Boussingault's experiments, however, were not limited to agriculture; his research also included work on atomic weights and the properties of steel alloys.
In 1954 the association "Maison de l'Eglise" bought the property and converted it into a conference center. It hosts groups, families and young people and organizes activities throughout the year.
Goersdorf is a small village nestled in a wooded valley far from the noise of the nearby cities. Apart from the beautiful natural setting, the area has numerous attractions: museums on art, history and popular traditions; castles and fortresses; military itineraries on WWII's historic Ligne Maginot; and archeological and religious sites.
In picture-book Wissembourg, a frontier town possessing the essence of Alsatian character, the Gothic church of St-Pierre-et-St-Paul is enriched by a 12th century rose window, a 30' high mural of St-Christopher (15th century) and an octagonal tower. The close-by Protestant church once had as pastor Martin Bucher, friend and follower of Martin Luther.
Several small but noteworthy villages are in the vicinity. Hunspach, with its half-timbered farmhouses and flowering orchards, is an unspoiled gem and among the most beautiful villages of France. Medieval Dambach la Ville is recognized for the preservation of its half-timbered houses and narrow picturesque streets. Hoffen is another inviting Alsatian village. During the Middle Ages, it belonged to the Abbey of Wissembourg. Its traditional houses display flower-bedecked windows. The "Liberty Tree," a regal lime planted during the French Revolution stands on place du Tilleul.
Accommodations
Hospitality is offered both in the main house and the youth hostel. Main house: 28 rooms with showers and toilets; 10 rooms with showers; 10 with washbasins. Rooms are single, double or family.
Youth hostel: 10 rooms with 2 to 6 beds for a total of 45 beds.
Amenities
Towels and linens are provided. The center is accessible to the disabled. There is parking, a TV room, elevator, several conference rooms and a chapel.
Cost per person/per night
Single room:
Full board 43.00€ to 47.00€ depending on the type of bathroom.
(Half board deduct 5.50€ from the full board fare).
Double room:
Full board 41.00€ to 43.00€ depending on the type of bathroom.
(Half board deduct 5.50€ from the full board fare).
For updated information on fares, visit the website or call the center.
Meals
All meals can be provided. Many special dietary requirements can also be met.
Directions
By car: From Wissembourg, take D3 to Lembach and then take D27 about 8 miles. Continue in the direction of Goersdorf and follow the 'Liebfrauenberg' signs. From Haguenau, take D27 to Woerth, D28 to Soultz-sous-Forêts for 0.8 miles, then D677 to Goersdorf and follow the 'Liebfrauenberg' signs.
By train: Get off at Haguenau station and take a taxi to Goersdorf. With advance arrangements, the center will provide transportation for 8.00€.
Contact
Responsable pour l'hospitalité
Le Liebfrauenberg
Eglise Autrement
Centre de Rencontres et de Formation BP 9
F - 67630 Goersdorf, France
Tel: 0033 (0)3 88 09 31 21
Fax: 0033 (0)3 88 09 46 49
Email: contact@liebfrauenberg.com
Website: www.liebfrauenberg.com
Maison Saint-Gérard
Redemptorist Fathers
The maison was founded by the Redemptorist Fathers in 1932. Until a few years ago it was only used for spiritual retreats. At that time, it was totally renovated and now accommodates individuals and groups seeking relaxing holidays. Elderly visitors and the disabled are also welcome. The house is in a shaded niche, enveloped by its own park and forest.
Established in the 12th century around the Hohenstaufen castle, Haguenau sits on the Rhine plain at the edge of an immense forest that fans out around the city and is a sanctuary of calm and beauty in the northern plain. Its museums feature Alsatian crafts and history. Many historical events took place in Haguenau including the great imperial hunts.
Haguenau is the fourth largest city in Alsace. An important industrial center with a long historical background, the first settlements date back to prehistoric ages, but its apogee occurred during the Imperial Period. At that time it was one of the ten cities of Alsace which adhered to the mutual alliance pact called "Decapole." The colorful story of Haguenau is illustrated in the Musée Historique, a neo-Renaissance building constructed between 1900 and 1905 and in the Musée Alsacien, housed in a 15th century structure.
Monuments include the church of St-Georges (12th -13th century), a harmonious blend of Romanesque and Gothic architecture and the church of St-Nicolas founded in 1189 by Emperor Frederick Barberousse. Other sights include Porte Wissembourg, the only vestige of the 13th century walls that in ancient times protected the city and Tours de Chevaliers (c.1235), once a prison.
Dating to the 13th century, Haguenau's Jewish community is one of the oldest in Alsace. Its historic synagogue was built in 1821 and, like most in the region, was damaged by the Nazis during WWII and later restored. The cemetery was consecrated in the 16th century but the oldest tombstone is from 1654. The Musée Historique sustains a collection of Jewish artifacts.
Nearby Betschdorf is an archetypical Alsatian town of timber-framed houses dating from the 18th century. Pottery is a traditional craft of the town, with roots stretching back to Gallo-Roman times. Today the tradition lives on with the salt sandstone technique wherein the pottery is painted with cobalt blue before firing. For centuries the knowledge of the unique glaze has passed from generation to generation. There is a pottery museum and workshop open to the public. A local specialty of the town is tartes flambées, hot, crispy tarts topped with fruit or cheese. Another village known for its pottery is Soufflenheim, about six miles from Betschdorf. The handcrafted pottery is earth colored and often decorated with flowers.
Accommodations
The maison offers hospitality to men, women and groups. All rooms have private baths. 30 rooms are completely accessible to the disabled. 100 beds in single, double, and family rooms (4/5 beds). All rooms are equipped with telephone and TV.
Amenities
There are two meeting and two dining rooms.
Cost per person/per night
Consult website.
Meals
All meals can be provided on request.
Directions
By car: On A4, exit at Haguenau. Once in Haguenau follow the signs (which are clearly indicated) to the house .
By train: Get off at Haguenau and take a taxi to the maison.
Contact
Anyone who answers the phone
Maison Saint-Gérard
11, rue de Winterhouse
67500 Haguenau, France
Tel: 0033 (0)3 88 05 40 20
Fax: 0033 (0)3 88 93 02 22
Email: maison_st_gerard@libertysurf.fr
Website: www.chez.com/maisonstgerard
Maison Saint-Bernard
Oeuvre de Lucelle
Lucelle resides at the border between France and Switzerland, about eighteen miles from Germany. An extremely peaceful location, it is immersed in the verdant landscape of the Alsatian Juras and offers the pleasures of relaxing walks along the river Lucelle. The name Lucelle derives from Latin and means "Cell of Light" (Lucis cella).
The maison is quartered in a lush wooded valley on a site once occupied by a Cistercian monastery that played an important role in the region. Historically, and until the French Revolution, the village belonged to the Cistercian abbey of the same name. The town's coat of arms is derived from the monastery's seal. Today, however, the only remains of the Cistercian complex are a part of the walls, a stone portal and some 17th century caves now occupied by the restaurant of the house.
A priest and an association manage the maison and host meetings, retreats and workshops year-round. The house is open to individuals, groups and families coming to enjoy the beauty of the area. The center organizes daily excursions in Alsace, Switzerland and Germany.
Alsace has the look and feel of a foreign, non-French country. The older half-timbered houses, many with wooden balconies, are identical to those across the Rhine in Baden.
To see Alsace at its most typical, follow the Route du Vin through scenic terrain dotted with wine-producing villages. Since Roman times, the Alsatians have tamed the hillsides which are crisscrossed with footpaths through the vines. Local costumes, wine festivals and much of the region's wine production reflect the area's Germanic roots.
Quite close to the maison is the second largest city in Alsace, bustling, industrial Mulhouse. It boasts a handsome old town center lapped by waterways - the Doller, the Ill and the Rhine-Rhône - and is known as "The City of Twelve Museums." The Musée National de l'Automobile displays 500 rare European cars including priceless Bugattis, Alfa Romeos, Mercedes and Porsches. The Musée Français du Chemin de Fer harbors Europe's largest vintage train collection including the former French presidential car with a lavish interior by glassmaker René Lalique. Mulhouse has a remarkable city hall and a delightful zoological and botanical park. Just outside of town is the Ecomusée d'Alsace, a 37-acre "village" of sixty 15th to 19th century traditional Alsatian houses transplanted from every corner of the province. The village is complete with stables, a forge and an oil mill.
The town of Eguisheim is an easy day trip north from the maison. Ideally located on the Route du Vin, the town dates to the Middle Ages. Its charm resides in its fountains, winding flower-filled alleys and the beauty of the countryside. The name of the city comes from "home of Egino" the Count of Eguisheim. Archeological research reveals that tens of thousands of years ago, homosapiens from the Dordogne lived in the region. At the core of the fortified city are traces of a 13th century castle and three towers. The castle was built by Count Eberhard, nephew of Sainte-Odile. In 1049 Bruno of Eguisheim was born in the town; years later he became pope.
Accommodations
150 beds in rooms with 2-6 beds. All rooms have a private bath.
Amenities
Towels and linens are supplied. Meeting rooms, chapel and TV room. The maison is accessible to the disabled.
Cost per person/per night
Double room half board 40.00€ to 44.00€, full board 44.00€ to 48.00€ plus additional charge of 0.50€ per adult per day (tax).
For a single room add the additional charge of 12.00€.
Meals
All meals can be provided on request.
Directions
By car: From Mulhouse take D 432 to Altkirch. From there proceed on D 432 to Lucelle.
By train: Get off at Mulhouse and take a bus to Lucelle.
Contact
Responsable pour l'hospitalité
Maison Saint-Bernard
68480 Lucelle, France
Tel: 0033 (0)3 89 08 13 13
Fax: 0033 (0)3 89 08 10 83
Email: cerl3@wanadoo.fr
Website: http://www.generation-nouvelle.com/seminaires
www.tourisme-lucelle.com
Air et Vie - Centre Monier
Managed by a lay organization
Installed in a woodsy setting, the center offers spiritual retreats and relaxing holidays. A Jesuit Father resides in the center and organizes various activities year-round. The house sits atop a hill dominating Marmoutier. The center's locale offers the opportunity of walking and hiking excursions in a peaceful environment.
The center was founded in 1958 by a group of sisters who wanted to open a retirement home that would also be open to all for holidays and spiritual retreats. They asked Père Monier (1886-1977) a famous Jesuit preacher to help them realize a center of cultural and spiritual exchange. He did so and remained at the center until his death. In 1996 the retirement home section was closed. There is a library of literature that guests may peruse concerning Père Monier.
The small town of Marmoutier was the former site of a great abbey which was destroyed during the French Revolution. The unusual abbey church with its 11th century Lombardic style façade is all that remains of the once important institution. The architectural patrimony covers a range of styles as exhibited in its Romanesque façade and Gothic nave and choir. In the course of recent excavations, relics of a pre-Romanesque church and a wooden sarcophagus were unearthed. They can be viewed in a crypt beneath the church.
The Musée d'Arts et Traditions Populaires de Marmoutier is sheltered in a 16th century, half-timbered building. It includes Jewish objects from rural Alsace, an ancient mikvah (ritual bath) and a secret room used as a synagogue during the years Jewish houses of worship were illegal in Alsace.
The Alsace region is tucked between the Vosges and the Rhine. A beautiful, fertile valley beneath vine-covered foothills, it is a place of fairy tale villages, historic cities and the rivers and canals that link them. From Marlenheim in the north to Thann in the south, the Route du Vin, runs along the foothills, traveling through a scenic tableau of villages distinguished by medieval towers and feudal ruins.
The architecture of nearby Saverne is so beautiful - ribbed pilasters and columns crowned by Corinthian capitals - that the city has been dubbed the "Alsatian Versailles." The Marne-Rhine Canal runs through and around the compact historic center with a lock directly in the middle of town. Pleasure crafts take turns passing through a lock located between the 14th century Recollets Cloister and the impressive pink sandstone Château de Cardinal de Rohan, once the home of the prince-bishops of Strasbourg. A monumental pool reflects the château's colonnaded façade and elegant gardens. The château shelters museums containing local treasures from Gallo-Roman times to the modern age.
Accommodations
13 single and 5 double rooms, each with private bath. Both men and women are welcome.
Amenities
Towels and linens are supplied. There is a meeting room, TV room, chapel and parking.
Cost per person/per night
Provisional cost for full board 36.00€ to 67.00€.
Meals
All meals are included.
Directions
By car: From Haguenau take N340 to Brumath. From there take A4 south about 24 km following the signs to Saverne, Nancy, Metz, Paris. Exit at "Sortie 45" and take N404 after Saverne. Near Otterswiller, take N4 about a mile and then D259 to Marmoutier center.
By train: Get off at Saverne and take a taxi to Marmoutier.
Contact
Anyone who answers the phone
Air et Vie - Centre Monier
Sindelsberg
BP 43
67441 Marmoutier cedex, France
Tel: 0033 (0)3 88 70 61 09
Fax: 0033 (0)3 88 03 22 40
Hostellerie du Mont Sainte-Odile
Order Diocese of Ottrott
Ottrott is one of the area's "Villages in Flower," a designation that defines the village as a pretty locale with charming old houses and lanes surrounded by forests and vineyards. Ottrott is renowned for the ruins of once mighty castles, its wine (rouge d'Ottrott), the Windeck Botanic Garden and, most of all, the monastery of Mont Ste-Odile.
Mont Ste-Odile has a long and fascinating history. The site, atop a mountain overlooking the Alsatian plain, was occupied in the prehistoric era by Celtic tribes. The tribes left a wall dating from 100 BC along with enormous sacrifice stones and megalithic fences. The Romans also occupied this dramatic perch that they called Altitona. As typical of them, they built paved roads and an entrance gate, now known as the "Roman Gate." South of the hôtellerie, a path leads to a view of the peculiar "Pagan Wall," a looping 6 mile circuit of rough stones. Its origin is a mystery but may have marked the bounds of a Celtic encampment.
The most interesting part of Mont Ste-Odile's history began in the 7th century. At that time a child was born to a Merovingian duke named Etichon. Not only was the child female, a detriment in itself during that period, but she was also sickly and blind. The duke ordered his firstborn killed but instead the child's mother gave the girl to a nurse who hid her in a convent. On the day of her christening, at the age of twelve, the child recovered her sight and hence the name Odile, the girl of light.
When Etichon learned that his daughter had survived, he wished to arrange a marriage for her. Seeking to escape her father's authority, Odile sought refuge on the mountain. When her father was about to seize her, the mountain opened and hid Odile. The father was impressed by the miracle and gave the castle of Hohenbourg to Odile so that she could turn it into a monastery. It is said that Odile performed many miracles throughout her lifetime. When she died her body was placed in a coffin that is still intact.
In 1546 a fire forced the nuns of the original order to leave the monastery and they never returned. The Prémontrés priests saw to it that the monastery survived and it became a popular pilgrimage site. During the French Revolution they too were forced to leave. In 1853 the monastery became the property of the Bishop of Strasbourg. Today the priests of the diocese and a religious community manage the complex.
The town of Ottrott produces red wine, rare in Alsace, and lays claim to two medieval châteaux. The village is engulfed by forests and vineyards and is among the most significant locations for Alsatian gastronomy. Its old houses and lanes lie in the shadow of the once mighty castle with its exceptional position at the foot of Mont Ste-Odile.
Ottrott is not far from Colmar, a quintessential Alsatian town, its streets threaded by the Lauch and Logelbach rivers. A section of town known as Le Petite Venise charms visitors with swans that float gracefully on the narrow canal. The ambience of the town has been well-preserved since the Middle Ages. Many small squares and narrow streets are pedestrianized. The ancient balconied houses lining the canals are detailed with ornate façades, paintings and gables. Their reflection in the waterways that drift through the city adds to the elegance of the setting.
Colmar boasts two famous works of religious art: set in a 13th century Dominican convent which overlooks the leafy Logelbach, Musée d'Unterlinden houses Matthias Grünewald's early 16th century Isenheim altarpiece; Martin Schongauer's celebrated painting, Virgin of the Rosebush, is preserved in the Gothic Eglise Dominicains.
The Musée Frederic-Auguste Bartholdi celebrates the Colmar-born sculptor of the Statue of Liberty. Bartholdi also executed a statue of Martin Schongauer. Within the museum, the Katz Room contains a fine collection of Jewish ritual objects and synagogue furnishings. There are several other worthwhile sites. Maison des Têtes is distinguished by 106 tiny grimacing faces sculpted into its façade; Maison Pfister with its slender stair turret and flower-accented façade is considered the loveliest house in the old town; and the Koifhus, a galleried structure with a Burgundian tiled roof, was the former customs house.
Part of Germany until 1681, Colmar's Jewish community dates back to the mid-13th century. The medieval settlement was located between the present rue Chauffour and rue Berthe-Molly. The Consistoire Israélite du Haut-Rhin was originally built in 1840. A neo-Romanesque synagogue typical of France during this period, it was destroyed by the Nazis during WWII and then restored.
Accommodations
60 single and 80 double rooms plus 2 family rooms (4 beds). 70 rooms have private bath, 15 have showers and 55 have only washbasins. Both men and women are welcome.
Amenities
Five dining rooms including one self-service that may be used by guests. Menus include the specialties of the region: homemade delicatessen, local wines and produce. There is a large private parking lot and several meeting rooms guests may use.
Cost per person/per night
Lodging 44.00€, half board 70.00€, full board 95.00€.
Meals
All meals can be provided on request.
Special rules
Closed January 5-18 and November 13-26.
Directions
By car: From Strasbourg take A35 and exit at Rosheim. Take N422 to Obernai and then D426 to Ottrott. From Ottrott follow the signs to Mont Sainte-Odile.
By train: Get off at Barr or Obernai and take a taxi to Mont Sainte-Odile.
Contact
Anyone who answers the phone
Hostellerie du Mont Sainte-Odile
Mont Sainte-Odile
67530 Ottrott, France
Tel: 0033 (0)3 88 95 80 53
Fax: 0033 (0)3 88 95 82 96
Email: info@mont-sainte-odile.com
Website: www.mont-sainte-odile.com
Foyer Notre-Dame de Reinacker
Franciscan Sisters
The Foyer Notre-Dame de Reinacker sits just outside the village of Reutenbourg in a locale dedicated to the worship of Mary. During the 14th century, pilgrimages were made to a simple building; however, in the 15th century, the present church was constructed. Its architecture is Gothic Flamboyant and reveals some interesting statuary.
Although pilgrimage to the shrine started long before 1350 the origins are undocumented. It is known that in 1350 an almost complete reconstruction of the shrine took place. Later additions included the tower of the choir (1693) and the restored façade (1827) which is surmounted by a statue of the Virgin. The pilgrims greet the statue while passing under the façade however, the true object of the veneration is sheltered within the interior. It is called Vierge Miraculeuse because of the miracles obtained due to her intercession. On the left altar is a Pietà (1443). The stained glass windows of the vault are enriched by fine decorations.
Reutenbourg is a small town and part of the Canton de Marmoutier. Its church of St-Cyriaque, an edifice of the 12th century, was remodeled in the 18th and 19th centuries. Most of its Romanesque elements were lost during the renovations. Facing the shrine of Notre-Dame de Reinacker is the Koppkreutz cross, erected in 1783 on a 1,200' hill.
Sheltered by the Vosges, Alsace enjoys a semi-continental climate with hot summers and long warm autumns, ideal for wine growers and visitors alike. An improbably beautiful place, Alsace is the stuff of which fairy tales are made - medieval towns and villages with half-timbered houses and slopes contoured with row upon row of vines.
Wedged between the Latin and Germanic worlds, Alsace is a crossroads of historical and cultural trends. The region has always been an object of desire as witnessed by its peaks topped with ruined fortresses built for defense. It was in 1648, under Louis XIV, that Alsace was united with the Kingdom of France. Then came the political wrangling between the French Republic and the German Empire evidenced by the fact that the province's nationality changed four times between 1870 and 1945.
Foyer Notre-Dame is surrounded by a rich assortment of hamlets and villages and is quite close to Saverne. A small, friendly town, Saverne possesses the region's very characteristic steep-pitched roofs, dormer windows and geranium-filled window boxes.
One of the outstanding monuments in Saverne is the vast red sandstone Château des Rohan. Its north façade has high Corinthian pillars and overlooks a park. Designed in an austere classical style, it was originally built as the residence of the bishops of Strasbourg. Constructed between 1779 and 1789 by the architect Nicolas Salins for Cardinal Louis-René-Edouard de Rohan-Guéméné, work was halted by the French Revolution and the nationalization of the clergy. During the first half of the 19th century, the castle was in ruins and threatened with demolition. Between 1853 and 1857, Emperor Napoleon III restored the facility to accommodate the widows of senior officials and soldiers who died in the service of France. After the War of 1870 the castle was transformed into barracks. It now shelters a small history museum, cultural center, primary school and youth hostel.
Immediately outside the city, a popular walk leads through woods of chestnut and beech to the ruins of the Château du Haut-Barr. The castle is dramatically sited on three green rocks atop a slender sandstone ridge. Views from the ruins are impressive, stretching across the wooded hills and over the plain towards Strasbourg.
Just north of Saverne, the town of Bouxwiller is home to the Musée Judéo-Alsacien. Installed on several levels of a synagogue typical of small town Alsace, the museum conserves permanent and temporary exhibits detailing rural Jewish life in Alsace through the centuries including the ways in which holidays, weddings and rituals were celebrated.
Accommodations
35 rooms and 60 beds: 12 single, 19 double and 4 family rooms (4 beds). All rooms have a private bath.
Amenities
Towels and linens are supplied. Meeting room, parking and chapel.
Cost per person/per night
Provisional cost only. For updated costs contact the foyer.
Lodging only: 25.00€, full board 36.50€.
Meals
All meals can be provided on request.
Directions
By car: From Strasbourg take N4 north to Saverne. After Wasselonne and before Singrist, turn right by following the signs to Jetterswiller and Couvent de Reinacker. From Saverne take N4 towards Strasbourg. Near Marmoutier (do not enter in the city), turn left and follow the signs to Reutenbourg.
By train: Get off at Saverne and take a taxi to Reutenbourg. With advance arrangements, the Foyer Notre-Dame can provide transportation from Reutenbourg.
Contact
Sœur Hôtelière
Foyer Notre-Dame de Reinacker
Lieu-dit Reinacker
67440 Reutenbourg, France
Tel: 0033 (0)3 88 70 60 50
Fax: 0033 (0)3 88 71 42 44
Email: srs.reinacker@wanadoo.fr
Website: www.notredamedereinacker.com
Monastère de Bénédictines
du Saint-Sacrement
Bénédictines du Saint-Sacrement
The monastery is quartered inside the Romanesque fortifications of Rosheim. The structure was used as a spa until 1862 at which time a group of Bénédictine nuns from Lorraine took up residence and founded the monastery. Shortly afterwards the nuns opened a boarding school for girls that became quite well known throughout France. The school was closed after the Nazi invasion in 1939. The 18th century complex has a chapel embellished by a 16th century Pietà.
The city has been inhabited since the Neolithic era. The first mention of the city dates to 778 AD when it was called Rodasheim. It was a religious possession of the Monastery of Ste-Odile and a town of the empire. In 1354 it became part of the "Decapole," (a pact of mutual alliance among ten cities of Alsace). The towers and portal have survived the centuries and bear witness to the high status of Rosheim during the Middle Ages.
With its decorations of sculpted beasts and an octagonal tower, the church of St-Pierre et St-Paul is a splendid example of Romanesque art. In the Mittelstadt, the old quarter, the antique houses are embellished
Monastère de Bénédictines
du Saint-Sacrement
Bénédictines du Saint-Sacrement
The monastery is quartered inside the Romanesque fortifications of Rosheim. The structure was used as a spa until 1862 at which time a group of Bénédictine nuns from Lorraine took up residence and founded the monastery. Shortly afterwards the nuns opened a boarding school for girls that became quite well known throughout France. The school was closed after the Nazi invasion in 1939. The 18th century complex has a chapel embellished by a 16th century Pietà.
The city has been inhabited since the Neolithic era. The first mention of the city dates to 778 AD when it was called Rodasheim. It was a religious possession of the Monastery of Ste-Odile and a town of the empire. In 1354 it became part of the "Decapole," (a pact of mutual alliance among ten cities of Alsace). The towers and portal have survived the centuries and bear witness to the high status of Rosheim during the Middle Ages.
With its decorations of sculpted beasts and an octagonal tower, the church of St-Pierre et St-Paul is a splendid example of Romanesque art. In the Mittelstadt, the old quarter, the antique houses are embellished by pots of geraniums and quaint shop windows. It is also the locale of the harmonious neoclassic church of St-Etienne. Among Rosheim's treasures is the Maison Romane, an elegant mansion of the 12th century, the oldest in Alsace.
Alsace stretches like a narrow ribbon from the Swiss border in the south to the German border north of Strasbourg. The famous Route du Vin winds its way through seventy-five miles of storybook villages past houses with gabled roofs and chimneys topped with stork nests. Influenced by the German language, architecture and cuisine and cradled by the Vosges and the Rhine, it represents an altogether alluring setting.
Molsheim is a charming old town near the north end of the Route du Vin. The town has remains of ramparts and an ancient fortified gateway. It shelters the Metzig, a Renaissance building erected in 1554. Truly Alsatian in design, the structure is accented by gables, a perron (an outdoor stairway leading up to a building entrance), a graceful balcony and loggia. A belfry crowns the latter where two angels strike the hours. The first floor is now a museum; the ground floor is devoted to wine tasting - Riesling, of course.
Heading south from Rosheim are two interesting towns, both of which specialize in the production of wines. Ribeauville has a long history and was first mentioned under Ratbaldovillare in an official document ca. 768 AD. It meant "Ville of Ratbold" which, in old German, signified the "boldest man of the counsel." The small town is comprised of walls and houses distinguished by wood beams. It was once the property of the Lords of Ribeaupierre, protectors of the traveling musicians and actors who filled the town every September 8th (birthday of the Virgin Mary). The tradition continues. Visitors still gather to hear musicians stage a show in tribute to their ancient sponsors.
Riquewhir is a uniquely picturesque town whose layout and structure have not changed since the Middle Ages. Partly walled, the 11th and 12th century houses along the cobbled streets maintain their courtyards, galleries, bow windows, old wells and fountains. All of the architecture is scrupulously preserved. Even the lifestyle of the townspeople continues as it has for centuries and revolves around winemaking. The aroma of Winstub, their particular wine, lingers in the air throughout town.
Accommodations
Hospitality is offered to single women, families or groups. No single men or groups of men are allowed unless they are religious representatives. Recently renovated, there are 30 rooms with 1 to 6 beds per room for a total of 45 beds. Some have only a sink, or a sink and a shower. Baths are outside the rooms. The small dorms with 6 beds have a private bath and small kitchen.
Amenities
Linens and towels are provided. There is a dining room, meeting room, conference room, library and garden.
Cost per person/per night
Voluntary contribution.
Meals
All meals can be provided on request. Half board or full board is the norm.
Products of the institution
The nuns produce hosts that are sold throughout France and abroad.
Special rules
Punctuality at meal times is required. Breakfast 7:30 - 8:45; lunch 12:30; dinner 7:00.
Directions
By car: From Strasbourg take A35 west and exit at Rosheim. The monastery is located in the center of town.
By train: Get off at Rosheim, take a taxi (no bus) or call the monastery and they will arrange transportation.
Contact
Ask for the "Sœur responsable pour l'hospitalité" or
call the direct number 0033 (0)3 88 50 28 95
Monastère de Bénédictines du Saint-Sacrement
1, rue Saint-Benoit
67560 Rosheim, France
Tel: 0033 (0)3 88 50 41 67
Fax: 0033 (0)3 88 50 42 71
Email: info@benedictines-rosheim.com
Website: www.benedictines-rosheim.com
Association Foyer de Notre-Dame
Lay Association
Positioned in the center of town, the foyer was opened in 1923 to host young women in need of support and shelter. In later years it became a center that hosted mainly female students, a tradition that continues today. However, during the summer months, June 1st through September 15th, the foyer is open to all guests.
Strasbourg is the capital of Alsace and owes both its name "the city of the roads," and wealth, to its position on the west bank of the Rhine, one of the great natural transport arteries of Europe. Originally Celtic, briefly Roman, alternately French and German, it wears its centuries with remarkable grace. Since Strasbourg grew along two rivers, the Rhine and the Ill, a boat tour is an excellent way to absorb the architectural splendor of the city.
A prosperous, dignified city, it retains an ancient medieval section known as "Petite France," where timber-framed houses and gently flowing canals evoke the medieval trades of tanning and dyeing. Visible throughout the city is the outstanding filigree spire of the pink Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Strasbourg. A wonderful example of Gothic architecture and a masterpiece of stone lace work. The sandstone edifice is one of the most gracious cathedrals in France, so lovely in fact that it inspired the poetry of Goethe. Its majestic façade, begun in 1284, has three portals richly embellished with carvings of biblical scenes. The spacious interior is artistically rich: stained glass windows, 14th century tapestries, a Flamboyant Gothic pulpit and the splendid Pillar of Angels. Installed in 1574 and a highlight of the church is the famous Astronomical Clock whose complex mechanical figures perform at noon each day. The cathedral's crowning glory, however, is the vibrantly colored rose window.
Adjacent to the cathedral, Musée de l'Oeuvre Notre-Dame chronicles the development of arts in the Upper Rhine from the 11th through the 17th centuries and contains much of the church's original sculpture. The museum courtyard exhibits Jewish tombstones from the 12th through 14th centuries.
The Jewish community of Strasbourg, which made a comeback from its devastating German occupation in WWII, retains its predominantly Alsatian character. The population is scattered throughout the city but many of the 17,000 remaining Jews live in the area around the main synagogue, a fashionable neighborhood near the Parc des Contades. The Synagogue de la Paix was built in 1958 to replace the synagogue destroyed by the Nazis. The impressive interior contains a circular sanctuary nestled beneath a Star of David. Ashkenazi services are held in the synagogue while those in the Sephardic tradition are held in the Synagogue Rambam at the same location (1a, rue du Grand-Rabbin-René-Hirschler).
Strasbourg's old Jewish quarter, on rue des Juifs (one of the city's oldest streets), includes the site of a 12th century synagogue (at # 30), a Jewish bakery (at # 17) and a surviving 13th century mikvah (ritual bath) at #20 rue des Charpentiers. Number 15, constructed in 1290, is the only remaining building from this period that was inhabited by Jews. Musée Alsatian houses an exhibit of Jewish ritual objects and a model shtiebel (prayer room).
A walk around the city can start at the cathedral and include the Pharmacie du Cerf, ca. 1268, reputed to be the oldest pharmacy in France and the Château des Rohan, just one of the many homes of the cardinal-bishops of the Rohan family. The château houses three museums including the Musée des Arts Décoratifs with its renowned collection of ceramics.
The bold modern architecture of the pink granite and glass Musée d'Art Moderne contrasts with the centuries-old houses. Ringed by the swan-flecked Ill, Old Strasbourg's ancient houses, canals and covered bridges, seem too scenic to be true. An abundance of monuments, churches and museums adds to the city's appeal. To the west by the Ill are four medieval towers, formerly linked by Ponts-Couverts (covered bridges), once part of the 14th century ramparts. To the north is the winsome rue du Bain-aux-Plantes with scores of Renaissance houses.
Throughout the centuries, converging influences have created a rich cultural heritage in Strasbourg. From that arose many artistic endeavors including Vieux Strasbourg ceramics, stained glass and stone lace work. The city's cuisine also reflects the diversity of its past with dishes such as pâte en croûte, a pate baked in a pastry crust; choucroute, sauerkraut with ham and sausages; and Alsatian Jewish desserts such as strudel and streusel.
Accommodations
50 single rooms, each with private bath. A few can be converted into doubles.
Amenities
Towels and linens are supplied. There is a meeting room and TV room.
Cost per person/per night
Lodging and breakfast 25.60€.
Half board 32.00€.
Full board 38.40€.
Meals
Breakfast is included and all meals can be provided.
Special rules
Punctuality at meals is required.
Directions
By car: From A4 exit at place Etoile/place Haguenau.
By train: Get off at Strasbourg and take a taxi or bus to the cathedral.
Contact
Anyone who answers the phone
Association Foyer de Notre-Dame
3, rue de Echasses
BP 70
67061 Strasbourg, France
Tel: 0033 (0)3 88 32 47 36
Fax: 0033 (0)3 88 22 68 47
Email: foyer.notredame@wanadoo.fr
animatrices.afnd@wanadoo.fr
Website: www.foyer-notre-dame.com
Maison Diocésaine
Property of the Diocese of Bayonne
Founded in 1915 the maison was once the old seminary of Bayonne. Today it offers hospitality to anyone seeking a relaxing atmosphere. The house is ensconced in its own park and woodland but close enough to Bayonne that it can be reached on foot. The sea is also accessible, less than four miles from Bayonne.
The capital of the French Basque country, Bayonne occupies land between two rivers, the Nive and the Adour. Once an historic frontier fortress, it is now an elegant city with arcaded streets and a thriving port dating from Roman times. It retains a Basque flavor with tall half-timbered houses and woodwork painted in Basque tones of green and red. Bayonne has given its name to the bayonet invented in the city in the 17th century.
Grand Bayonne, the old town, lies within the ramparts on the left bank of the Nive. It is home to the 13th century Cathédrale de Ste-Marie. Northern Gothic in style, the church is defined by twin towers, a lovely, almost secretive, cloister and a striking 13th century apse with dramatic flying buttresses and a double row of windows. Its design is based on the cathedrals of Soissons and Rheims. The nave is characterized by stained glass windows and ancient sarcophagi.
The arcaded rue du Pont Neuf is at the heart of the attractive pedestrian zone on the Petit Bayonne. Musée Bonnat, named for native son Léon Bonnat, provides an unexpected treasure trove of 13th and 14th century Italian art. Highlights also include Goya's Self Portrait, Ruben's Apollo and Daphne plus works by Murrillo, El Greco and Ingres. An entire gallery is devoted to high society portraits by Léon Bonnat whose personal collection formed the original core of the museum. Musée Basque, sheltered within a 15th century building typical of the region, provides insight into Basque customs and culture: seafaring, costumes, traditions, arts and crafts and the quintessential Basque game of pelota or jai alai.
Around the year 1500, Sephardic Jews fleeing the Spanish Inquisition arrived in Bayonne, bringing their chocolate manufacturing trade with them. To this day, hot chocolate remains a specialty of the area. Some of the oldest Jewish cemeteries in France are located in the small villages near Bayonne: Bidache dates from 1690; Payrehorade, 1628 to 1737; and Labastide-Clairence, 16th century.
Close-by Biarritz is one of the most famous seaside resorts in the world. Once a tiny fishing village near the Spanish border, it was favored by Napoleon III, Empress Eugenie, members of the English royalty and other famous dignitaries. It remains a fashionable haven, its beaches undeniably beautiful, its streets lined with tamarisks and hydrangeas. The promenade, "La Perspective," has remarkable mountain views. In Biarritz nearly every villa has a story. It is said that the Villa Belza (Basque for black) owes its name to a West Indian governess who saved the children of the Dubreuil family during the French Revolution. In gratitude for her bravery, the owners of the villa changed their name to Belza-Dubreuil.
Nearby Guethary was once a fishing port but is now a place of handsome villas, most built in true Basque style. The parish church occupies a commanding position and harbors a 15th century processional cross.
Not far from the maison are two intriguing places to visit. Espelette is a village of wide-eaved houses that feature maroon-colored shutters with maroon peppers dangling from window frames. Even the disc-shaped gravestones are special and present an altogether pleasing picture, so much so that Espelette has won the title of "Prettiest Village in France." Aside from its beauty, Espelette's principal source of renown is its large red pimento. Much used in Basque cuisine, the pimentos were brought to the town from the Americas by explorers in the 15th century. Pottok ponies, a native Basque breed once favored for work in British coal mines, but now raised for riding, are peculiar to Espelette and its environs. Herds of them are a common sight on the upland pastures.
Cambo-Les-Bains is an old spa enclave. The new part of town with its ornate houses and hotels radiates out from the baths over the heights of the river Nive. The old quarter is an archetypical Basque village of whitewashed houses and a galleried church. The main attraction to Cambo-Les-Bains is the Villa Arnaga, less then a mile from town. This larger-than-life Basque house overlooks an almost surreal formal garden. The villa was built for Edmond Rostand, author of Cyrano de Bergerac. It's an unusual, very kitschy place with a minstrels' gallery, fake pilasters, allegorical frescoes, portraits and memorabilia.
Accommodations
80 beds in single and double rooms. Rooms have washbasins and showers. Toilets are shared.
Amenities
Towels and linens are supplied. TV room, private parking and meeting rooms.
Cost per person/per night
Provisional costs only.
Single room 17.00€; double room 25.00€ breakfast included.
Meals (only Monday through Friday) 10.00€.
10% advance payment within 15 days after the reservation.
Meals
All meals can be provided.
Special rules
Curfew at 9 PM.
Breakfast 7:30-9:00, lunch at 12:30, dinner 7:15.
Directions
By car: Exit at Bayonne sud on A83 and follow the signs towards Bayonne-Biarritz. At the third roundabout take the road indicating "Domaine Universitaire." The maison is on the hill to the left.
By train: Get off at Bayonne and take a taxi or bus # 7 or 2 from the "Hôtel de Ville." Get off at the "Université" stop.
Contact
Anyone who answers the phone
Maison Diocésaine
10, avenue Jean Darrigrand
64115 Bayonne cedex, France
Tel: 0033 (0)5 59 58 47 47
Fax: 0033 (0)5 59 52 33 98
Email: maisondiocesainebayonne@wanadoo.fr
Website: http://www.diocese-bayonne.com/2_xtaction/maison_diocesaine/conditions_accueil.html
Sarl L'Arrayade
Property of the Bishopric of Dax
Managed by lay personnel
L'Arrayade, which in local dialect means sunny, was once the seminary of Dax. A few years ago it changed its focus and now hosts all guests. Situated in an alluring position, a little over a mile from the center of Dax, L'Arrayade is enclosed by a park and offers year-round workshops and retreats in addition to relaxing holidays.
The town occupies a privileged situation in the heart of the forest of the Landes, between the Atlantic and the Pyrénées. A mosaic of scenery, it encompasses the forest region to the plains of the Adour, lakes and ponds to the chain of dunes and fine, sandy beaches. Famous for its rugby, festivals, bullfights and food, Dax was also the first thermal spa of France. Every year more than 100,000 visit the city.
The source of the Adour begins in the Pyrénées, at the foot of Mt. Tourmalet, crosses the département of Landes, continues to the city of Bayonne and then flows into the Atlantic to the place called "La Barre." At one time it was the major transportation route of the département. Part of the route passed over a stone bridge built by the Romans. Washed away in a flood in 1770 it was first replaced with a wooden bridge and then in 1857 by the current structure. The watermark left by the floods can be seen against the arch on the left bank. The promenade along the Adour is overseen by the classical 17th century Cathédrale Notre-Dame.
Dax has many interesting monuments including the statue of Jean-Charles De Borda. Born in Dax in 1733 the renowned mathematician and physicist is one of the fathers of the metric system. A maritime engineer, he applied his triangulation theories to previous surveying methods and invented numerous navigational instruments. The maritime school of the French Marines was named after him.
Although only a small part of the Gallo-Roman ramparts remain in Dax, archeologists have described the fortifications as "the most beautiful and most complete type remaining in France." Built in the 4th century, the ramparts are 12' thick, 30' high and endowed with 46 round towers and 4 massive doors. The thermal spa of Dax has been well known since the time of Emperor Augustus and traces of the Roman wall remain. Named after Nèhe, a Scandinavian goddess of waters, the Warm Fountain symbolizes the city. Built in the 19th century on the site of the Roman baths, the fountain has an output of 634,000 gallons per day with a temperature of 147° F. The source of the thermal liquid results from a fault dating from the time of the rise of the Pyrénées. There is a subterranean circuit where high temperature and mineralization of the water are acquired at great depth. In the pond of the fountain, especially after sunny periods, there is a bloom of algae, part of the water's natural healing properties called "Dax's Péloïde."
According to legend, a Roman legionnaire leaving for a campaign and knowing his dog, crippled with rheumatism, could not follow him, threw the animal into the mud of the Adour river. To his utter amazement when he returned, his dog was alive and cured. The Roman baths of Aquae Tarbellicae were then born around the famous Warm Fountain. It became the place where Roman legions went to recuperate after their campaigns.
The Cathédrale Notre-Dame Ste-Marie is a classic style neo-Greek structure erected in the 17th century on the site of an ancient Gothic building constructed by the English during their 300-year occupation of the town. The 12th century oval door, called the "Apostles Door," was classified by the National Historical Society in 1884. The beautiful stalls of the canons, dating from the ancient cathedral, have been preserved. The high altar and the altar of the Virgin were the work of the brothers Mazetti. The 17th century organ chest was created by Caular, a local cabinetmaker. Recently restored, the chest is one of the most beautiful of France.
The Aquitaine region of southwest France is quite beautiful. From the emerald pastures of Limousin to the snowcapped wilds of the Pyrénées, from the Dordogne to the Atlantic beaches, the region is a spectacular montage of rugged mountains, lush valleys, tree-shaded waterfalls, storybook castles and villages hidden behind turreted walls. Of course, there's also the wonderful food - foie gras, truffles, roast duckling, forest mushrooms and, naturally, vineyards featuring the great Bordeaux.
Nearby Mont-de-Marsan is a bullfighting mecca that attracts bullfighters from Spain and France. There is also the course landaise, a less bloodthirsty event, where participants vault over a charging cow.
Accommodations
45 single, 24 double and 1 triple room. Some of the rooms have private baths, the remainder have only a washbasin. Showers and toilets are located near the rooms.
Amenities
Towels and linens are supplied. Meeting rooms, TV room, private parking.
Cost per person/per night
Lodging only:
Single with private bath 27.00€, with shared bath 22.00€.
Double with private bath 31.00€, with shared bath 27.00€.
Meals
All meals can be provided on request. Half and full board are offered only to guests staying longer than 3 days.
Breakfast 3.50€.
Lunch and dinner 10.00€ each.
Directions
By car: Exit at Orthez on A64 and take N117 and N10 to Dax. When making reservations, request the local map available to guests.
By train: Get off at Dax and take a taxi to L'Arrayade.
Contact
Anyone who answers the phone
Sarl L'Arrayade
26 bis, rue d'Aspremont
40100 Dax, France
Tel: 0033 (0)5 58 58 30 30
Fax: 0033 (0)5 58 58 30 31
Email: arrayade@yahoo.fr
reservations@arrayade.cef.fr
Website: http://arrayade.cef.fr
Centre d'Accueil Madeleine Delbrel
Bishopric of Périgeux
The center was once the seminary of the city. When it closed in 1969 it was converted into a guest house for groups, individuals and families for vacations and spiritual retreats. Quartered in the center of Périgeux, amidst its own spacious park, it is conveniently located for daily excursions into the lovely environs.
Périgeux is an ancient and gastronomic city and, like its neighbors Bergerac and Riberac, should be visited on market days when the stalls in the medieval sections offer local specialties. Périgeux is famous for its pâtés, notably goose livers and truffles, its chief exports. The city is divided into three parts, two of which are worth visiting; the present day section around the Byzantine Cathédrale St-Front; and La Cite, a medieval quarter and once the important Gallo-Roman settlement of Vesunna. Remains from Roman times include arenas, the Vesunna tower and an amphitheater. The 12th century cathedral has five domes topped by cupolas. Its interior is adorned with Byzantine-style chandeliers. In the old town, the longest and finest street is the narrow rue Limogeanne; it is lined with Renaissance mansions many of which are now boutiques and patisseries. Throughout the area, fine Renaissance houses remain, including St-Louis where a turreted watchtower leans out over the street. Musée du Perigord exhibits some very beautiful Gallo-Roman mosaics and a number of exquisite Limoges enamels. Particularly arresting are the portraits of the twelve Caesars.
Nearby Brantôme sits in a bend of the river Dronne, whose still, water-lilied surface mirrors the weeping willows of the riverside gardens. On the north bank of the river are the church and convent buildings of an ancient abbey. Bergerac, also close-by, is replete with drinking fountains on street corners and a cache of medieval era houses. Musée Régional de la Batellerie is in the heart of old town. A statue in honor of Cyrano de Bergerac reposes on the square outside the museum. The museum's displays include barrel-making and river trading. In the old port, the flat-bottomed boats called gabares once exchanged goods for barrels of wine. (In the Middle Ages, merchants used rivers as the best way of trading goods with inland towns.) Markets are held Wednesday and Saturday mornings beneath the belltower of place de l'Eglise.
The greatest concentration of prehistoric sites in France is found near Périgeux along the Vezere river. Les Eyzies-de-Tayac is encompassed by caves and grottoes, many adorned with primitive art. More than 300 animal figures are carved on the walls of the Grotte des Combarelles; the paintings of horses, bison, mammoths and reindeer in the Grotte de Font-de-Gaume are second only to Lascaux.
The city of Bordeaux is near enough for a day trip. It boasts a population of over half a million and is an obviously rich enclave - as it has been since the Romans established a trading center there. But it was the 18th century French urban renewal that made it the beautiful city it is today. The stunning place de la Bourse and its arc of merchant houses is the centerpiece of a string of popular riverside quays. The Sunday market overlooks ships moored along the wharf. Place du Parlement is an asymmetrical jewel and Vieux Bordeaux is an inviting pedestrian quarter. Place des Quinconces, with its statues of Montaigne and Montesquieu, former magistrates of the city, dominates the core of town.
Aquitaine's oldest and largest Jewish community can be found in Bordeaux, where evidence of Jewish settlement dates back to the 4th century. Toward the end of the 15th century, Jews fleeing the Inquisition of Spain and Portugal settled in Bordeaux under a grant from King Henry II. They were called Conversos or Marranos (Jews forced to convert to Christianity but who still practiced Judaism in secret). In the relative safety of their new homeland, the Jews gradually became more open about their heritage and established a Jewish section in the parish cemetery. In addition, Jews from Provence began to settle in Bordeaux and by 1753, the Jews of Bordeaux gathered for prayer in seven private locations.
By the beginning of the 18th century, Bordeaux was home to almost 2,000 Jews. At three different times in the 18th century, expulsion orders were issued but each time the community found a way to have its stay extended. During the 19th century two renowned wineries were established by Jews: Baron Nathaniel de Rothschild founded Château Mouton-Rothschild in 1853 and his cousin Baron James founded Château Lafite-Rothschild in 1867. During WWII two thirds of Bordeaux's Jews were deported. Today not much remains of the Jewish district but traces can be seen on the rue Cheverus just off the rue Ste-Catherine pedestrian mall, once known as Arrua Judega. There is also a city gate on rue de la Porte-Dijeaux, once called "Jews' Gate." After the war, the few Jewish survivors who remained rebuilt the Grande Synagogue. The current structure is highlighted by Carrara marble and is the largest synagogue in France.
Accommodations
75 beds in 40 double and one triple room. All rooms have a private toilet and washbasin. Showers are shared.
Amenities
Towels and linens are supplied. There are five meeting rooms, private parking and a TV room.
Cost per person/per night
To be determined when reservations are made.
Meals
All meals can be provided on request.
Special rules
Times when silence is requested and times when showers cannot be used are posted in the rooms.
Directions
By car: From Bordeaux take A89 to Périgeux. The center is in the heart of town.
By train: Get off at Périgeux. It is a 15-minute walk from the train station. Or take a taxi or bus.
Contact
Anyone who answers the phone
Centre d'Accueil Madeline Delbrel
Maison Diocésaine
38, avenue Georges Pompidou
24000 Périgeux, France
Tel: 0033 (0)5 53 35 70 70
Fax: 0033 (0)5 53 46 72 94
Email: camd24@wanadoo.fr
Maison St-Raphael
Diocese of Aurillac
The maison is well situated in the center of town. Offering a simple and friendly atmosphere, the maison is used as a retreat for French priests but also hosts guests who wish to visit the compelling landscapes of the region.
A small market town, Aurillac is a maze of old streets, now mostly pedestrianized. The provincial capital of the Cantal, it still bears the mark of its commercial and industrial past. Its markets and fairs are some of the most important in the region. On a steep bluff overlooking one end of town is the 11th century keep of the Château St-Etienne, locale of the fascinating Musée des Volcans. In addition to displays on volcanoes, there is a wonderful view over the mountains to the east. The focus of the Musée Rames is on local archeology and traditional Cantal country life.
Aurillac is within the Massif Central, a dense cluster of mountain ranges covering nearly 33,000 square miles and encompassing almost a sixth of France. It includes some of the least populated parts of Western Europe. A region where nature still reigns supreme, it is a place where rivers run through impressive gorges and forests range from dense woodland to spacious oak groves. France's most diverse geological region, the Massif Central is home to the Parc Naturel Régional des Volcans located northeast of the maison. Several hundred volcanoes are sited within the park. These magnificent geological features are linked by high plateaux, vast successive flows of lava eroded by glaciers dating back to the Quaternary period.
No two volcanoes are the same, a fact quickly revealed at the park. Among the different types, scoria cones are the most common. Also known as Strombolian cones after the active volcano Stromboli, they are easy to recognize. The crate sits atop a cone formed by a "scoria," the volcanic spray and pozzolan spray thrown out during the eruption. "Maars" are circular crates that can measure several hundred yards in diameter. The ash, blocks of earth and volcanic spray thrown out by the explosion are left around the crates in the shape of a ring or crescent and form the maar. Dome volcanoes are often formed following very violent eruptions. After the initial eruption that opens the crater in the ground, the lava rises to the surface. Since it is too thick to flow, it accumulates to form a dome. Lastly, "Planezes" are very old lava flows transformed into low plateaux.
To the southeast of the maison are the attractive villages of Mur-de-Barrez and Brommat where a number of old houses and churches add to the ambience of these undiscovered gems. Southwest is the Châtaigneraie (chestnut grove), over a half million acres of chestnut trees crisscrossed by sunken paths broken up by small valleys. The area is perfect for walking and cycling.
Due north of the maison, the 16th century town of Salers crowns a steep escarpment. Classed as one of "The Most Beautiful Villages in France," Salers reflects its 16th century heyday in cobblestone streets, 15th century ramparts and handsome Renaissance houses of gray volcanic stone, many with pepper-pot turrets, mullion windows, towers and carved lintels. The structures completely encircle Grande Place and remain as examples of the extraordinary architecture of that period.
Accommodations
Six beds in 4 single and 1 double room. Most have private baths.
Amenities
Towels and linens are supplied. Meeting room, parking and TV room.
Cost per person/per night
To be determined when reservations are made.
Meals
All meals are provided on request.
Special rules
Curfew to be arranged with the maison. Punctuality at meals is required.
Directions
By car: Exit at Massiac on A75 and take N122 to Aurillac.
By train: Get off at Aurillac. Take a bus or taxi to the maison or make prior arrangements and transportation can be provided.
Contact
Responsable pour l'hospitalité
Maison St-Raphael
40, avenue de la République
1500 Aurillac, France
Tel: 0033 (0)4 71 48 69 10
Accueil St-Georges
Managed by the Catholic Association "Grand-Séminaire"
The old seminary of Le-Puy-en-Velay sits atop a volcanic thrust embraced by a park in the center of town. At one time, Accueil St-Georges housed young men studying to become priests. As vocations decreased, the accueil was converted into a guest house to host pilgrims. "We have about 200 beds but there are periods when we don't have even one bed available," said the man at the desk.
The sanctuary, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, was built in the early Middle Ages. Its popularity, both in France and throughout Europe, resulted in Le Puy becoming the starting point of the road to Santiago de Compostela. On August 15th, the Day of Assumption, the statue of the Black Virgin is carried in procession through the streets of the town. Throughout the centuries the veneration has aroused a great fervor, especially when the Feast of the Annunciation coincides with Good Friday. When that occurs, it is known as the Jubilee. The thirtieth occurrence of this event took place in 2005.
Le Puy ranks among the most remarkable towns in France. Slung between the higher mountains to the east and west, the landscape erupts in a chaos of volcanic stone, a confusion of abrupt conical hills top knotted with woodlands. The town enjoyed immense prosperity because of its medieval ecclesiastical institutions and it remains a center for pilgrims. Its most outstanding monument is the colossal, brick-red statue of the Virgin and Child that towers above the town on the Rocher Corneille. The Virgin is cast from 213 guns captured at Sebastopol and painted red to match the tiled roofs below. Views from the statue stretch over the singular volcanic countryside.
The town is the center of an old lace industry - most of which can be explored in a maze of steep cobbled streets that terrace the ancient town. The Cathédrale Notre-Dame de France dominates the old quarter. The exterior is one of the best examples of Auvergnat's Romanesque custom of decoration by using stone blocks with different shades of color in mosaic patterns. Begun in the 11th century, the cathedral is roofed with six domes. A long series of stairs leads from the Golden Gate and the streets, climbs under the cathedral and emerges in the center of the nave, directly in front of the altar and the Black Madonna. Another flight of stairs passes the miraculous Fever Stone, reputed to cure illnesses.
Almost Byzantine in inspiration and decoration, the Romanesque church of St-Michel d'Aiguilhe (literally, "of the needle") is a structure made all the more exotic by its site - perched atop a needle-pointed lava pinnacle with over 250 steps leading to the entrance.
The new part of town is accented by the spacious Henri Vinay public gardens, locale of Musée Crozatier. The museum is known for its collections relating to the region's traditional lace-making activities.
Accommodations
Approximately 200 beds in single, double and triple rooms; baths are outside the rooms.
Amenities
Linens are supplied at an extra charge of 4.60€; towels are not supplied.
Cost per room/per night
Single room 12.00€, double 20.00€, triple 28.00€.
Meals
All meals can be provided on request.
Special rules
Punctuality at meals is required.
Directions
By car: Exit Le-Puy-en-Velay on A75 and reach the town with N102.
By train: Get off at Le-Puy-en-Velay and walk or take a taxi to the Grand Séminaire.
Contact
Responsable pour l'hospitalité
Association Grand Séminaire
Accueil St-Georges
4, rue Saint-Georges
43000 Le-Puy-en-Velay, France
Tel: 0033 (0)4 71 09 93 10
Fax: 0033 (0)4 71 09 93 17
Email: accueilstgeorges43@wanadoo.fr
Domaine de Chadenac
Managed by a Catholic association
Domaine de Chadenac enjoys a favorable position at 1,000' in the volcanic area of the Haute-Loire, a few miles from the town of Le-Puy-en-Velay. Once a fortified farm, the pretty 17th century stone building is nestled in a large parkland and sustains an ancient aura. Donated by a priest in 1935, the building dates to the 17th century. Some time ago it was completely restored. The diocese entrusted it to the Catholic association which now manages the facility. Many families come and stay for one or two week holidays but the domaine is open to individuals and groups as well.
Le-Puy-en-Velay had its beginnings on Mount Anis, just one of many volcanic peaks that rise precipitously above the fertile valley floor. The Romanesque Cathédrale Notre-Dame de France was begun in the 11th century. It has a checkerboard façade that reveals the influence of Moorish Spain. Most visitors come to see the Black Madonna. Standing upon the main altar, the Virgin is dressed in lace and golden robes. The passageway to the cloisters passes the so-called Fever Stone whose origins may have been as a prehistoric dolmen reputed to have the power of curing fevers. Ecclesiastical buildings comprise the medieval Holy City complex and distinguish the upper town. They all date from the same period and form a remarkable architectural pastiche.
The Domaine de Chadenac is in France's Massif Central, a region settled about 2,500 years ago by the Celtic Arverni. It is a landscape of rolling hills connected by pastureland and punctuated by thick forests. A rustic, rugged terrain, it is home to sheep, horses and cattle. It is also a land of extinct volcanoes; their symmetric cones dot the horizon in every direction.
Accommodations
Rooms with 1, 2, 3 and 4 beds. Rooms have private bathrooms accessible to the disabled.
Amenities
Linens are supplied; towels can be supplied for an additional fee of 3.5€. Parking, swimming pool, tennis court, badminton and volleyball. Accessible to the disabled, lift, indoor and outdoor dining rooms, chapel, terrace.
Cost per person/per week
Half board 259.00€, full board 294.00€.
Costs for fewer days to be determined when reservations are made.
Meals
All meals can be provided on request.
Special rules
Guests are required to leave the rooms clean, otherwise they will be charged an additional 20.00€ per week.
Directions
By car: Exit Le-Puy-en-Velay on A75 and take N102 to town.
By train: Get off at Le-Puy-en-Velay and take a taxi to the domaine.
Contact
Anyone who answers the phone
Domaine de Chadenac
Ceyssac-La-Roche
43000 Le-Puy-en-Velay, France
Tel: 0033 (0)4 71 09 27 62
Fax: 0033 (0)4 71 02 87 45
Email: chadenac@free.fr
Website: http://chadenac43.free.fr
La Maison des Planchettes
Property of the Diocese of St-Flour
managed by a lay association
Located at the heart of the medieval city of St-Flour in the Cantal, la Maison des Planchettes (House of the Small Planks) is installed in an 18th century building. Just a few minutes from the center of town, the maison overlooks the valley below. Founded in the 15th century, the institution was once the ancient seminary of St-Flour. It experienced various vicissitudes due to the French Revolution and the separation of power between state and church at the beginning of the 20th century. Despite these difficulties, the activity of the seminary continued until 1959. At that time it became a guest house for holidays, workshops and spiritual retreats.
St-Flour is the seat of a 14th century bishopric. Dramatically perched on a basalt promontory above the river Ander, the town was prosperous in the Middle Ages because of its strategic position on the main road from northern France to Languedoc. The medieval city conserves many architectural treasures.
Constructed of hard, black basalt chosen for its durability, the 14th century Cathédral St-Pierre is a structure of striking simplicity; its interior sheltering the only black Christ in France, a fine vaulted ceiling and several works of art, some dating to the 13th century. The church is enveloped in a jumble of old streets lined with 16th and 17th century houses. The entire area is quite appealing, particularly on Saturday mornings when it is filled with colorful market stalls. From the terrace of the cathedral, there are views over the countryside.
A number of attractive ancient buildings and two museums face the cathedral. Musée Alfred Douet displays a collection of furniture, tapestries and paintings. The more interesting Musée de la Haute-Auvergne is housed in the Hôtel de Ville, formerly the bishop's palace, a beautiful edifice dating from the 17th century.
East of St-Flour, the Margeride mountains stretch as far as neighboring Le Velay. These granite mountains are covered in open moorland and deep forest. The Margeride served as an entrenched camp for resistance fighters during WWII. Mount Mouchet holds particular importance for the movement and was the theater of some fierce battles. Today it pays tribute to the brave men and women in a national museum in Auvers. The Margeride is also crossed by dozens of streams that wind their way through dreamy landscapes.
South of St-Flour is the spa town of Chaudes-Aigues where thermal springs gush forth from the earth at over 179° F. They are the hottest in Europe and are used to heat part of the town. Sometimes called "Notre-Dame des eaux chaudes," the town is located at the southern tip of the region. As a result, there is a distinctly southern air to its architecture and spa atmosphere. The city lies at the gateway to Aubrac, a vast and imposing green plateau scattered with villages and "mazucs," mountain farms where cheese is made during the summer months.
Accommodations
The maison has 73 renovated rooms. The number of beds ranges from 1 to 5, some with private bath. Daily room cleaning can be arranged on request.
Amenities
Towels and linens are supplied. Accessible to the disabled. TV room, private parking, chapel. Various meeting rooms are fully equipped for workshops or conferences.
Cost per person/per night
Typical summer costs per person:
No meals, per person 25.80€.
Half board 29.75€ to 42.75€.
Full board 35.90€ to 55.15€.
Note: Rates vary according to the type of room and season.
Contact the maison or visit the website for current rates.
Meals
All meals can be provided on request.
Special rules
Closed during the Christmas holiday.
Directions
By car: St-Flour is south of Clermont-Ferrand on N9.
By train: Get off at St-Flour and take a taxi to the maison.
Contact
Mr. Ferraton
La Maison des Planchettes
7, rue des Planchettes
BP 37
15102 St-Flour cedex, France
Tel: 0033 (0)4 71 60 10 08
Fax: 0033 (0)4 71 60 22 44
Email: info@maison-des-planchettes.com
Website: www.maison-des-planchettes.com/
Monastère de la Visitation
Visitandine Sisters
From its hilltop position, the monastery offers a panorama of the valley below St-Flour, a charming small town of Auvergne. Founded in 1628, the monastery was closed during the French Revolution and reopened in 1928.
The first monastery (1628) was founded in another part of the town and was occupied by a large group of nuns until the French Revolution forced them to leave. Many returned to their homes, but they reunited when the suppression of religious orders ended. Since their numbers had decreased, they took up residence in a different building (also built in 1628) that was restored in 1928. "Our monastery is in a town that is very pretty," said Sœur Marie-Ange. The chapel of the monastery contains three retables; one represents the Adoration of the Three Kings and has been classified by "Beaux Arts."
The historic capital of the High Auvergne, St-Flour's history began at the first Christian era with the arrival of Florus. Alongside the cathedral, prestigious landmark of the upper town, many buildings bear witness to the Gothic style of the late Middle Ages as well as masterpieces of the Renaissance period. These structures include the work of sculptors who created art from the basalt stone.
Several inviting towns are in the vicinity. Just northwest of the monastery, Murat is on the eastern edge of Cantal at the foot of a basaltic crag topped by a giant white statue of the Virgin Mary. The closest town to the high peaks, Murat is the easiest to access. Part of the town's appeal lies in its ensemble of gray stone houses, many dating from the 15th and 16th centuries. Crowded together on medieval lanes, they are backdropped by steep basalt cliffs. An elegant 16th century house, Maison de la Faune, is open to the public. The Eglise de Bredons is a Romanesque structure containing 18th century altarpieces. Continuing further northwest, on the fringes of Cantal, Mauriac is small and pretty, with black lava houses and a Romanesque basilica, the Notre-Dame des Miracles.
Accommodations
Women only: 18 single rooms with private bath.
Men and women: 20 single and double rooms. Some of the rooms have a toilet and shower; all have a toilet and sink (shared showers on every floor).
Amenities
Towels and linens are provided.
Cost per person/per night
Full board 34.00€, other rates depend on the number of meals, type of room, etc.
Meals
All meals can be provided on request.
Special rules
Punctuality at meals is required.
Directions
By car: St-Flour is south of Clermont-Ferrand on N9.
By train: Get off at St-Flour and take a taxi to the monastery.
Contact
Sœur Hôtelière
Monastère de la Visitation
7, avenue du Docteur-Mallet
15100 Saint-Flour, France
Tel: 0033 (0)4 71 60 07 82
Fax: : 0033 (0)4 71 60 43 97
Email: ma.visitation@wanadoo.fr
Maison SainT-François
Community of Consecrated Lays
Communauté du foyer de Charité de Tressaint
Sheltered within its own flower-filled park, the guest house lies in a peaceful residential area close to the shores of the river Rance, less than a mile from the center of Dinard. The handsome construction is an ancient convent of Capuchin friars presently occupied by a Catholic community of consecrated lays. The maison has been completely restored and offers hospitality to individuals, groups and families.
A pretty English-flavored resort, Dinard has princely villas, gardens and parks. Once a fishing village, Dinard sprawls around the western approaches to the Rance estuary, just across from St-Malo (a twenty-minute car ride). Set in a hilly tableau, the town undulates over a succession of scenic coastal inlets with sandy beaches. Footpaths lead off in either direction from the principal beach which is enlivened by reproductions of paintings of the scene displayed at various points along the way including Pablo Picasso's Deux Femmes Courants sur la Plage and Baigneuses sur la Plage. Both works look quintessentially Mediterranean with their blue skies and golden sands but in actuality were painted in Dinard during Picasso's annual summer visits in the twenties.
One path heads east to the Pointe du Moullinet and views of St-Malo and then continues as the Promenade du Clair de Lune past the tiny port and down to the estuary beach, plage du Prieuré. A stroll along the promenade ambles amidst flowers and palm trees, pinnacled belle époque mansions and Mediterranean-style gardens. Hugging the coastline are numerous islands and islets, ideal day trips.
Nearby Dol de Bretagne became one of Brittany's first bishoprics in the 6th century. King Nomino I of Brittany was crowned there in 848 AD. The medieval town has one of Brittany's oldest houses, Maison des Petits Palets. It evokes the past and the Vikings who invaded the region many centuries ago.
Ancient Dol de Bretagne has its charms as characterized by rows of half-timbered houses and an imposing cathedral which owes its founding to St-Samson, one of the seven founding saints of Brittany who came from Britain in the 6th century. A prodigious structure, the cathedral is a gem of religious architecture. Standing on the edge of a marshland and partially built in the 13th century, it is flanked by twin towers, one higher than the other. The interior shelters eighty 15th century choir stalls carved with leaf motifs and human heads.
Situated in front of St-Samson is the "Cathedraloscope," a French national cathedral interpretive and discovery center. Three floors of museum displays and slide presentations explain the "Mystery of Cathedrals" to visitors. The innovative museum journeys through the history of cathedrals using a guided commentary to recreate this singular world.
As in other regions of France, food plays an important role in the character of Brittany. In Breton, a platter of fresh Breton seafood is considered an epicurean delight. Cortiadea, a Breton fish soup is a local specialty. Breton leg of lamb with white beans is another treat as are Morlaix ham and chitterlings from Quimperle. Far Breton is a cake whose recipe varies from region to region; kouign amann, literally butter cake, melts on the tongue.
Accommodations
80 rooms. The number of beds can vary depending on the level of comfort required. All have private baths, but some do not have showers.
Amenities
Linens are supplied; towels are not. There are two workshops, a private garden as well as bikes, books and games for rent. There is also a ping-pong table and TV room.
Cost per person/per night
Price to be determined when reservations are made.
Meals
Meals are always included with the lodging and cannot be reimbursed in case of absence. If a day trip is planned, picnic lunches can be provided.
Directions
By car: Take A11 and exit at Rennes. Follow the signs to Saint-Malò. From there follow the signs to Dinard. A detailed "Plan d'Accès" can be seen on the website.
By train: Get off at Saint-Malò and take a bus to Dinard. The bus terminal is 2 km from the maison. If arrangements are made in advance, transportation can be provided from the train station.
Contact
Write a letter, fax or email the Secretariat
Maison Saint-François
1, avenue des Acacias
La Vicomté - BP 80260
35802 Dinard cedex
France
Tel: 0033 (0)2 99 88 25 25
Fax: 0033 (0)2 99 88 24 15
Email: st.francois@wanadoo.fr
Website: maison-saint-francois.com
Monastère des Augustines
Augustinian Sisters
Possessing the best of both worlds, the monastery is secluded in its own parkland less than a mile from the center of Morlaix. It faces the sea which is fed by the narrow strait of Morlaix. The complex was founded in the 16th century, however, the present order has only inhabited the institution for the past 150 years. The monastery sustains a small museum of sacred art.
During the Middle Ages, Morlaix was one of the great old Breton ports. Built on the slopes of a steep valley, the town was originally protected by an 11th century castle and a circuit of walls. Little is left of either but in the old part of town, the cobbled streets and half-timbered houses evoke the town's medieval past. In the Jacobin convent, Musée des Jacobins contains an interesting assortment of Roman wine jars and a few modern paintings.
Brittany's ancient Celtic name was Armorica, (land beside the sea). A landscape comprised of 750 miles of magnificent Atlantic coastline indented with hundreds of bays and inlets, the coast is rimmed by stunning high cliffs and fine sandy beaches. The region is dotted by small fishing ports where brightly painted boats nestle beneath half-timbered or stone houses. Like many a seafaring place, Brittany is a land of legends, from mysterious megaliths to Merlin the Magician, legends imparted in a tableau of forests and castles and elaborately carved stone churches.
Brittany is known for its Enclos Paroissiaux, literally "parish close." They represent some of the most spectacular yet common monuments in western France. Parish closes consist of a small monumental park such as a cemetery, around which are grouped a church, calvary and ossuary.
Bretons are known for their deeply religious and traditional culture and a visit to a parish close provides insight into that culture. One of the most beautiful is Lampaul-Guimiliau, an easy day trip from the monastery. There are two other closes in the nearby area: St-Thegonnec and Guimiliau.
On the northern coast of Brittany, not far from the monastery, is the resort town of Roscoff, departure point for ferries sailing to England and Ireland. Ranked as a "Small Town of Character," one of twenty in Brittany, Roscoff's stone heritage is exceptional, with winding stairs, sculpted dormers, finely carved cellar doorways and a church bell tower topped with lantern turrets. The coastal town's finery is largely the result of its privateering and shipbuilding past. The remarkable uniformity of the old town's architecture (on the waterfront) is of particular interest. Primarily a fishing village, part of the medieval town wall survives beside the seafront. It was in Roscoff that Mary, Queen of Scots, landed in 1548 on her way to Paris to be engaged to François, the son and heir of Henri II of France. Roscoff's granite houses cluster around the 16th century Notre-Dame-de-Croas-Batz which showcases an ornate Renaissance belfry, complete with sculpted ships and protruding stone cannons. From the side, rows of bells can be seen hanging in galleries, one above the other like a wedding cake. Le Grand Figuier (giant fig tree) was planted in the early 17th century in the garden of the Capuchin convent. Its sprawling branches are supported on granite columns.
The waters of the English Channel around Roscoff experience a tidal phenomenon. Twice a day coastal landscapes change as the tide goes relentlessly in and out dictating the rhythm of life for marine creatures and flora. The tide is a result of the combined action of the moon and sun. The gravitational pull that these two heavenly bodies exert on the sea causes the tide to withdraw from the coast. The tide goes back in approximately six hours later, covering scenery that just a short time before had been left exposed. When the earth, moon and sun are in syzygy (lined up in a row), a maximum pull results in the extraordinary spring tides. The rise and fall during this time is a rare and magical sight. Nowhere is the landscape quite so varied, the view so changeable.
Heading northeast from the monastery, Lannion's alleyways reveal the town's historical and architectural treasures including 15th and 17th century wooden houses and 18th century mansions. The 20th century chapel of St-Joseph by architect James Bouille is embellished with frescoes by Xavier de Langlais. The old town is quaintly alluring with its cobbled squares, timbered houses, churches, cloister and monastery. The Templar church of Brelevenez is accentuated by a flight of 142 steps. The Church of St-Jean-du-Baly dates to the 16th century. The Stanco valley runs directly through the town making it ideal for outdoor pursuits. Boat trips leave from the riverbank which is lined by a towpath.
Accommodations
Three small apartments inside the park of the monastery offer hospitality to families or small groups. Two of the rooms have 4 beds; one has 8. All have a bath and kitchen.
Amenities
Towels and linens can be provided on request.
Cost per person/per night
To be determined when reservations are made.
Meals
Not available.
Special rules
Pets are not allowed; guests are required to respect the silence. Open from May to September.
Directions
By car: From Paris take N12 to Morlaix.
By train: Get off at Morlaix and take a taxi to the monastery.
Contact
Sœur Hôtelière
Monastère des Augustines
St-Francis BP 47
29201 Morlaix cedex
France
Tel: 0033 (0)2 98 88 56 36
Fax: 0033 (0)2 98 63 92 55
Notre-Dame-de-Beaufort
Dominican Sisters
Dominating the pond of Beaufort, the monastery occupies a picturesque site ensconced in a verdant woodland. The beautiful stone structure became a monastery after the Dominican sisters took up residence in 1963. The complex was seriously damaged during the German occupation but over the last forty years, the sisters have managed to restore the building and enlarge the chapel which has a vaulted beamed ceiling and rustic stone walls.
Brittany is a peninsula between the English Channel on the north and the Bay of Biscay on the south. The coast, particularly at the western tip, is irregular and rocky with natural harbors (Brest, Lorient and St-Malo) and numerous islands. A part of ancient Armorica, the area was conquered by Julius Caesar in the Gallic Wars. It received its modern name when it was settled (c. 500) by Britons driven from Britain by the Anglo-Saxons. Brittany and the Breton people have retained many old customs and traditions. Breton, their Celtic language, is spoken in Lower Brittany. Costumes featuring high lace headdresses are distinctive in every community and are widely worn on Sundays and holidays. Many megalithic monuments, attributed to the Druids, dot the countryside.
Sitting in the heart of the Rance valley, nearby Dinan occupies a plateau overlooking the valley and the ocean port below. The former seat of the Dukes of Brittany, its rue du Jerzual was once the main street leading to the port. The town's medieval heritage is apparent in the ancient houses and churches along its cobbled streets. The 14th century Château de Dinan houses collections offering some insight into the history of the Pays de Dinan; its dungeon includes a museum.
Nearby Lehon has recently been awarded "Small Town of Character" status. In the 9th century, King Nomino founded a Bénédictine abbey that houses the relics of St-Magloire. The Lords of Dinan built a fortress on the rocky spur to protect the richly endowed abbey and defend the passage of the river Rance. In later years, the craft industry contributed to the prosperity of this ancient castle town. It has retained an historic and religious heritage that recalls its importance in medieval times. Reminders of its significance can be seen in fine houses with molded cornices and sculpted lintels.
Once an important Gallo-Roman town, the regional capital of Rennes is a fairly large city with over a quarter million residents. It is a mixture of "new" 18th century royal architecture enveloped by an array of half-timbered houses from the 15th century. Its recent restoration project has blended medieval heritage with modern industry. Home to the Brittany Parliament, the city is also known for its museums, theaters and festivals. The restored 15th century Chapelle St-Yves shelters a permanent exhibition that relates the story of the city.
Palais des Musée contains the Musée des Beaux-Arts and the Musée de Bretagne. The former displays a collection of art from the 16th century to the present day including paintings by Veronese, Rubens, Corot, Sisley and Gauguin. The latter provides insight into Breton art, history and culture. The place du Palais and place de l'Hôtel-de-Ville form the heart of old Rennes; la place des Lices is a bustling meeting place on market days.
Becherel, a tiny town perched atop a hill, is also in the vicinity. A Celtic cross and Gallo-Roman ruins are testimony to the town's ancient background. The streets are lined with graceful 16th to 19th century houses. The imposing Romanesque church can be seen soaring upward from a small circular warren of streets filled with quaint squares. Although linen and hemp once made Becherel a prosperous town, today it is renowned for its bookbinding and calligraphy workshops. There are so many new and second-hand booksellers that the old fortified town has become the third largest book town in Europe.
Accommodations
30 beds in 13 single and 10 double rooms. Only 2 rooms have private bath. All rooms have a sink.
Amenities
Towels and linens are provided. Meeting room available to guests.
Cost per person/per night
To be determined when reservations are made. Rates will depend on the type of hospitality (generally about 30.00€ for half board).
Products of the institution
The sisters produce jam, honey, candles, icons, religious garments and fabric with batik decorations.
Meals
All meals are provided with the lodging.
Special rules
Full board for those coming for spiritual retreats; half board for other guests. Punctuality at meals, no radio or noise inside the monastery. Closed the last two weeks of June, the first two weeks of September and the first two weeks of January.
Directions
By car: From St-Malo take N137 south to N176. Take N176 heading towards Caen. Follow the signs to Plerguer. Take C201 from Plerguer to Beaufort.
By train: Get off at Dol-de-Bretagne and take a taxi to the monastery.
Contact
Sœur de l'Accueil
Notre-Dame-de-Beaufort
35540 Plerguer
France
Tel: (Sœur de l'Accueil) 0033 (0)2 99 48 36 12
Tel: (Monastery) 0033 (0)2 99 48 07 57
Fax: 0033 (0)2 99 48 48 95
Website: http://ndbeaufort.free.fr
L'Abbaye
Sisters of the Immaculate (Sœurs de l'Immaculée)
Brittany is defined by the sea and its coast which spans some 750 miles, sometimes jagged with treacherous cliffs, sometimes flat with long sandy beaches, and always, with palms, oleanders, figs and mimosas which thrive in the mild climate. For coastal Bretons, the sea means anything from raising oysters to deep-sea fishing. The area where the monastery is located is known as the Emerald Coast, named after the sparkling green color of the sea.
St-Jacut-de-la-Mer is almost an island, located between the bays of Lancieux and Arguenon and linked to the coast by a rocky isthmus. The abbey is a large complex quartered on this enchanting spot in the northernmost region of Brittany. Founded in 465 by St-Jacut it was originally a Bénédictine institution. The abbey is near the ocean and lodged in a park that provides visitors with a distinct sense of serenity. For centuries the abbey constituted an important religious center which exerted great influence on the development of the area. During the French Revolution the monks were forced to leave and the abbey was almost destroyed.
The life of St-Jacut revolves around the life of the monastery, which despite numerous vicissitudes, was a powerful institution until the 16th century. Beginning in 1875 the community of the Sœurs de l'Immaculee of St-Méen-le-Grand took up residence in the complex. During the summer months the abbey welcomes guests on holiday. At that time, the sisters organize numerous activities, excursions and workshops.
At the tip of the Arguenon area, at the heart of the Emerald Coast, St-Jacut is an attractive seaside resort and fishing village sited on a peninsula with a large natural bay lined with eleven beaches. Ebihens Island has a causeway that can be crossed at low tide. Most likely separated from the coast by an earthquake in the 6th century, traces of prehistoric settlements have been uncovered on Ebihens. A travel itinerary can include nearby St-Malo and Fort La Latte.
In the 9th century refugees fleeing Norman raids on St-Servan settled in St-Malo. The walled city is considered a Corsair City (corsairs were pirates). Renowned for its architecture and majestic site on a rocky promontory guarded by a reef of small islands, the bustling seaport was almost annihilated at the end of WWII. The city, however, was rebuilt with so much care for its original appearance that its narrow streets somehow retain a medieval milieu. A walk around the famous ramparts is the best way to view the sea and the town. St-Malo's castle was built by the Dukes of Brittany outside the walls of the town. Two of its towers are now museums; Grand Donjon illustrates the town's maritime history while the Quic-en-Groigne contains waxworks of the exploits of the corsairs.
Built in the middle of the 14th century by the Goyon-Matignon family, Fort La Latte was originally called Roche Goyon. It suffered two major sieges, the first in 1379, the second in 1597. An excellent example of medieval architecture, it was transformed under Louis XIV into a coastal defense fort. At that time its high walls were converted into cannon batteries. The pink sandstone watchtower protected St-Malo's ships from their enemies, the English and the Dutch. The military career of the fortress continued into the 19th century. Now listed as an historic monument, it is open to visitors.
Accommodations
95 rooms all with private bath. Rooms have 1, 2 or 3 beds.
Amenities
Towels and linens can be provided with the lodging (make arrangements when reservations are made). There are several meeting rooms that can accommodate up to 180 people, two TV rooms, a gallery for parlor games, reading room, library, tennis court and ping-pong table. There are four dining rooms.
Cost per person/per night
Approximately 40.00€ to 54.00€ per day (adults). Rates depend on the season, number of people, type of room, etc. For updated rates visit the website or inquire when reservations are made.
Meals
All meals can be provided with the lodging.
Special rules
Punctuality at meals. It is preferred that guests arrive in the afternoon on their first day. Closed the last week of June.
Directions
By car: From Paris take A81 or N12 to Rennes. From there follow the signs to St-Malo on N137. Exit at Dinan and take D794 west, past Dinan to Plancoët. Once there take D768 to St-Jacut-de-la-Mer.
By train: From Paris get off at St-Malo, Rennes (TGV) or Plancoët. Take a bus or a taxi to the abbey.
Contact
Directrice
L'Abbaye
BP 1
22750 St-Jacut-de-la-Mer
France
Tel: 0033 (0)2 96 27 71 19
Fax: 0033 (0)2 96 27 79 45
Email: abbaye.st.jacut@wanadoo.fr
Website: www.abbaye-st-jacut.com
Abbaye de Rhuys
Sisters of the Charité de Saint-Louis
The spiritual center is an ancient abbey quartered in the middle of St-Gildas-de-Rhuys on the Golfe du Morbihan and the wild coast of Brittany. Founded in the 6th century by Saint-Gildas, an Irish monk, it was later occupied by a Bénédictine community. The church of the abbey has survived through the centuries and is a unique example of monastic Romanesque architecture blending elements of the 11th, 12th and 17th centuries. Today the former monastery of the abbey is inhabited by the Sisters of the Charité de Saint-Louis and managed by lay personnel.
The Golfe du Morbihan is only twelve miles wide and among the most provocative coastal settings in Brittany. Literally "little sea," Morbihan is sprinkled with tiny islands. It is a medley of picturesque villages, fishing boats, sea and migratory birds. The coastline also has several nature reserves and numerous walking paths. On either side of this virtual island/peninsula lie two very different views of the maritime world - the Atlantic and the Gulf. Composed of nine ports, the largest is at Port Crouesty. The smallest, Port aux Moines, is at St-Gildas. The best way to see the area is by boat; there are many rentals and tours available.
One of the foremost prehistoric centers is the seaside resort of Carnac, famed for its megalithic remains from the Neolithic period. In addition to almost 3,000 menhirs, (massive stones erected by tribes who inhabited the region before the arrival of the Gauls), the area is studded with burial places, semicircles and tumuli (a pile of stones or earth placed over a grave). Carnac nestles in beautiful Quiberon Bay. Its Musée de la Préhistoire shelters a vast collection of artifacts.
Located ten miles off the southern coast is Belle Ile, Brittany's largest island. Buffeted by storms and fringed by rocky cliffs, it is an isolated natural paradise. It is also home to three different species of seagull. The medieval city of Vannes, at the head of the gulf, is a perfect base from which to experience the inland sea and its many islands. The city is enclosed by 13th century ramparts that recollect Brittany's medieval and Celtic past. It was in Vannes in 1532 that the province formally united with Fra